Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Motorhome Automatic Slack Adjusters - Periodic Maintenance Required?


Brian Keys was a Country Coach motorcoach expert during his tenure at the defunct Country Coach, LLC Country Coach brand motorcoach manufacturing company. He shared his product knowledge in articles and at rallies held across the U.S. This article was authored in 2002 and shared in Country Coach LLC’s former print publication, Country Coach Destinations. I share it here for its technical value to owners of the older Country Coach motorcoaches still traveling America’s roads today. Obviously, with time some technical information may be outdated.  
Note: Country Coach Corporation, a service and consignment coach sales business in Junction City Oregon, currently produces a monthy epublication. You may learn more online at www.countrycoach.com.
 
 
GUEST POST:
Is Maintenance Required on My Motorcoach's Automatic Slack Adjusters
 
by Brian Keys
 
Q) My chassis user's guide indicates that my coach is equipped with Automatic Slack Adjusters. Since they are "automatic", is there anything that I need to do in the way of periodic maintenance?

A) That's a great question, because the answer is not as obvious as it may seem. As you may already know, in an air brake system, the Automatic Slack Adjuster (ASA) is basically a lever that transforms energy provided by the coach's air system into torque. This torque, or twisting power, applies the vehicle brake linings against the brake drums (or rotors in the case of disc brakes). Additionally, as its name would indicate, the ASA is the point in the brake system where slack between the brake linings and the drums or rotors is monitored and corrected.

This is necessary because as the brake linings wear due to normal usage, the slack adjuster must twist farther in order to obtain the same application force between the brake linings and the drums or rotors. At some point in this process, if no adjustment were to be made, you would find yourself pushing ever harder on your brake pedal, even as your coach became more difficult to stop. So ASA's are designed to make constant, small adjustments as the brake linings wear, thereby maintaining optimum brake adjustment. Before the advent of ASA's, slack adjusters had to be checked and adjusted manually and at regular intervals based on mileage in order to avoid this situation. So then, ASA's have made the old manual slack adjuster inspection and adjustment requirements obsolete, right? Well, actually, yes, with some qualification. With a properly engineered brake system like the one on your coach, no manual adjustment of your ASA's should be necessary until normal brake wear makes a standard brake re-line necessary. It is still a good idea to have these components checked at each chassis service. The most effective and straightforward test of proper ASA adjustment is the Chamber Power Stroke Measurement Test. This straightforward test takes just a few minutes, and will confirm that your ASA's are adjusting properly. Any qualified chassis shop will be familiar with the tolerances recommended by various brake manufacturers. If your coach is a 2000 model year or newer, the coach User's Guide should contain an Appendix section which lists the recommended tolerances for your vehicle's brake system. Of course, regular lubrication of the ASA's, along with a minor inspection of the brake system at the intervals outlined in your coach User's Guide is a necessary part of your overall chassis maintenance program.



 

 

Country Coach Friends President Celebrates Club Success

President's Reflections On Country Coach Friend's Success by Jerry OConnor, President
 
As I celebrate this club's fast track growth pattern and all the business partners and friends who have helped us along the way, I reflect on this great group of club members. These people with such positive friendly spirits whose warm hands of friendship have helped this club quadruple it membership and more since its birth in mid-2011.

Why the steady growth? I think it centers around integrity and friendship. It's universally understood that we associate with people we trust and buy services from people we like. 
Yes, our Club needs to offer undeniable value to its members--and it does.  And yes, rallies need to be of such a high quality that attendees are quite happy with the registration fee they contribute to the rally's expenses. And boy are they ever!
 
But the bottom line is, a social organization needs to be authentic, genuine and of unquestionable integrity in all we do and say. We club members are here because the Club is attentive to our needs, fosters an atmosphere of friendship, and offers great benefits and resources.
 
We members love to share time, interests, and travels, and to form Friendships with like minded recreation enthusiasts. We treasure Friendships formed sitting coach-side or at a rally. That warm spirit of fellowship and camaraderie always enjoyed with CCFI Friends makes it well worth the annual membership fee.

The CCFI Board will never become over zealous in marketing the club and its services by down-selling others. We hope that other clubs are having equal success in their social endeavors. Country Coach Friends Club is centered around providing a climate of Fun, Friendship, and always, always remains committed to Traveling the High Road.
 
Since June 2011 when we began this wonderful new thing, a club steeped in Country Coach Tradition yet vibrant growing, this Club has put Friendship first. We are family after all--and isn't motorcoaching all about camaraderie, fellowship and fun enjoyed with lifelong friends on the open road?

Come Join the Fun, Join the Club--and let's rally together!
 
Upcoming Rally Opportunities:
 
August 21-25, 2013
3rd Annual CCFI Friendship Rally
Linn County Expo Center
Albany OR
 
October 7-12, 2013
Calistoga Wine Harvest Rally
Napa County Fairgrounds
Calistoga, CA
 

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Oregon RV Resource Guide "Rally Edition" Just Released

Oregon RV Alliance has just released its 4th Edition of the Oregon RV Resource guide.

Loaded with information about the many leisure opportunities that await RVers in Oregon, there is a special focus on rallies within this issue.

A rally is a perfect setting in which to Make Friends, Get Coach Service Done, Shop, Tour the Area with friends, enjoy Great Rally entertainment and Learn so Much about Your Coach and the systems and components it is equipped with.


Family Motor Coach Association will be rallying at the Linn County Fair & Expo in August, as well as the Country Coach Friends Incorporated Club. FMCA visits historic Albany August 8-11 for its NW Regional Rally and Country Coach Friends follow up that great rally with their 3rd Annual Friendship Rally August 21-25. The annual event for the CCFI club is open to the first 200 motorcoachers, regardless of brand owned. You're welcome!

 I am pleased to be helping line up the hour-by-hour daily schedule for the CCFI Friendship Rally event. Many popular presenters will be on hand offering timely technical information about your motorcoaches as well as many lifestyle and human interest classes and seminars.

 

A small sampling are listed here, to learn more visit the Club's website.

Tires and Batteries Seminars by Bob Dickman Tire Center/Les Schwab
Fire Safety and Planning for an Emergency Escape from your Coach Seminars with Mac McCoy
Four seminars on your mobile living and coach care by Debbie Hollembaek of DLH Design
3 Seminars from SilverLeaf Electronics
Auxiliary Braking and Copilot Fundamentals by Blue Ox
Interior and Exterior Coach Care with Mary Findlay
Cabinetry Care and Renovations with Matt Carr
Chassis Care and Maintenance with Country Coach Corp, Oregon Motorcoach Center, Premier RV
K-9 Demonstration and Personal Safety Seminars by Linn County Sheriff's Department
Internet Seminars and Computing on the Road Classes by Geeks on Tour
Understanding Your Audio Visual seminar
Geneology with Candayce Detloff
Card-Making with Nel Lenox
Beading Class
Make and Take an Iron On Sparklers Tee Shirt with Judy Knox
Pampered Chef with Sue Rahimian
Wine Tasting
Off site tours and lunches at 3 of the best service centers in the United States, all located right where Country Coaches were originally built!
Service Providers on site
Vendor area open for shopping opportunities
Coaches For Sale on display
and so much  more....

 

Make your plans to enjoy a RV rally soon! Perhaps Albany In August?


I'm betting you'll soon find yourself addicted to the Rally Lifestyle and Making Friendships that will last a Lifetime!




Friday, May 17, 2013

Fulltimer's Primer on Coach Maintenance Part 3

Rosemary Mancillas, Country Coach Magna owner, authored this article in 2005. As it is full of common sense maintenance info, I am happy to share it here in the blogspot. We pick up in Part 3 with item 12 of her "quick and dirty list of maintenance items"....See previous posts for Part 1 and Part 2.

Fulltimer's Primer, Part 3


12) Onan generator - After the first 50 hours the oil and filter must be changed. The initial factory filter is much smaller than the regular filter replacement. An Onan technician told me he saw a genset come in after being usd 950 hours with the original filter. An expensive replacement of the generator was guaranteed. Check oil and coolant levels on a regular basis. Once a year or every 150 hours you should replace the oil, oil filter, and air filter. Coolant should be flushed and replaced same as engine coolant. Fuel filter should be change at 500 hours. To keep systems in running order it is recommended you run the generator at least two hours every month with a heavy load. If the generator is not used and fuel gets fouled with algae growth from standing in the lines, the fuel filter will become clogged. (Hint: While you are doing this, now is a good time to remove and clean the AC vent filters under the plastic grill.) Note from the CC Destinations editor: Not every Country Coach was equipped with an Onan generator; consult your owner's guide with questions specifi to your generator's maintenance.

13) Sanitize the fresh water tank and lines (and water hoses) several times a year, especially if you get into a questionable water supply. It does happen and it won't take long to suffer the consequences. Fill the fresh water tankand add a solution of 1-3/4 cups of bleach for 100 gallons of water. Run it through the faucets so it will also sanitze the lines and let stand for three hours. Then empty the tank and refill with water and dump it again. Vinegar can be used to neutralize the chlorine smell and taste, or baking soda. You will need five gallons of vinegar in the full tank of water to flush the chlorine smell and taste. Also commercial "sweeteners" can be found at Camping World that look and feel mysteriously like baking soda. You might have to fill and drain the water tank a total of four times. It is a bit of a procedure, but trust me, you don't want your water tank to turn into a science experiment.

14) Don't forget to replace your house water filters as needed. Beware of bacteria growth in the tank or filters while it is in storage. I replaced my one filter system with a two filter system.The first filter is to reduce sediment and the second filter removes other smaller particles and "germs." If the flow of the water seems reduced, it might be wise to remove and flush the sediment trap in the water pump itself.

15) Check the hydraulic fluid level inthe HWH slide reservoir with rooms fully retracted. Use Dexron II, high quality ATF or HWH has their own brand of fluid.

16) Furnace maintenance needs to be done at least once a year if you have Webasto, Hurricane or Hydro-Hot furnaces, possibly more often if used heavily.

Last but not least...

17) The air dryer desiccan cartridge and purge valve assembly should be replaced every 50,000 miles or every two years whichever comes first! The desiccant is like a powder sponge that absorbs moisture from the air in the dryer system. Not maintaining this system can at minimum cause corrosion, affect the ride height valves and other parts of the air system and brakes.  If the desiccant cartridge is overloaded with moisture causing it to "explode" the desiccan "dust" into the air system, it will be a Very expensive repair.

Cosmetic
As far as cosmetic maintenance is concerned, there is an endless dialogue among fellow RVers as to who makes the best wheel polish, roof treatment, was, and window cleaner. I suggest you ask a "guy" or check the owners forum on Yahoo. There are as many opinions as there are RVers. Meguiar's wax and Busch's wheel polish seem to be the most popular. I personally prefer the "ABM" (anyone but me) or the BBTW system (Blue Beacon Truck Wash). I have a "professional" wax the coach and polish the wheels twice a year. I do not like to climb on ladders or roofs. I do wash the bugs off on a regular basis during the season and keep the exterior clean with touch-ups. I like to use the no-rinse "minimal water" cleaners that you wipe on and dry off. Most campgrounds do not want you to use their water for washing coaches. Aerospace 303 is recommended for UV protection on the roof once or twice a year.

Some additional items I have found useful:
1) Howard's Feed and Wax is excellent for the wood cabinets.
2) Minwax Stain markers touch up scratches on the cabinets or where stain has rubbed off. (Wipe off excess and follow with Howard's after it dries.)
3) Hope's Countertop Polish or Hope's Solid Surface Cleaner and Polish for the Corian countertop will restore the shine with a buffing. It lasts a surprisingly long time.
4) I use 3M'sMarine Outdoor Vinyl Leather Conditionser and Protector for the vinyl in the front windshield area.
5) Hope's Perfect Glass Cleaner or Glass Plus seem to be the best I have found for mirrors and the glass cooktop.
6) Trader Joe's Zen Multi-Purpose Cleaner is a nice, mild general purpose cleaner.
7) Murphy's Oil Soap is good on the ceramic tile floors and other multi-purpose cleaning.
8) Thetford's Aqua Clean does a great job in the shower. It removes soap scum and leaves the shower surface looking like new. (I wipe down the glass every shower with a "Miracle Cloth" tso there are no water spots.
9) Miracle Cloths are excellent for cleaning or wiping dry inside the coach and out. I like the big Costco package. Do not use bleach or softener rinse when you wash them and hang them to dry.
10) EcoSave is an ecologically safe bacteria/enzyme based product for the holding tank that I have found to be excellent. I use regular 1-ply Scott Tissue and the dry version and never have had a problem. It is compact and doesn't take up much space, unlike liquid treatmnts. (They also have a liquid EcoSave version; I prefer the dry.)
11) When parked with full hook-ups, I usually leave the gray tank valve open. It is a good idea to occasionally close the gray tank valve while parked, adding holding tank treatment (EcoSave) and allow the tank to fill and clean any buildup in the tank overnight or a day or two. I have not had a problem with odors or sensors if I do this about once every month or so.
12) Sewer Solution is a water powered jet pump sustem designed for dumping the waste from RVs and flushing the system clean. I was introduced to this style of self-cleaning sewer hose system by another Country Coach owner and I will never use that nasty accordion drain hose again. No more "walking the hose." It is so much more sanitary. You can purchase two additional 10 foot extensions that can be added or removed in a blink of an eye. Check it out on line or at Camping World.
13) Residue in the p-traps or accumulating in the drains can cause yucky odors. A few times a year or as needed, at bedtime, it is a good idea to put a cup of baking soda followed by a cup of either vinegar or hydrogen peroxide down the shower and sink drains to clean overnight.
14) When I do steam clean on my carpts twice a year, I have found that the upholstery attachmnt works grat on the cloth window shades. It should not be necessary to do the shades more than once a year or every other year. A good vacuuming (and a HEPA air filter) about once a week kps dust mites down. A nice touch up product is Host carpt cleaner that you sprinkle on, brush in, let dry and vacuum up.

I have sometimes considered placing one of those ads I have seen, "Wanted pleasant couple to maintain and repair (campground) motorhom." Sure. When I become rich and famous and have a Prevost Conversion with a driver and footman... Until then, I will have to be "Queen of the Road" in my own little palace on wheels and a very busy bee. (It keeps me out of trouble.) Maybe I can just borrow someone's husband once in a while....to fix things, that is.

Website Resources Utilized for this Article:
www.countrycoach.com
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Country-Coach-Owners
http://rvservicereviews.com
http://freeautoadvice.com/diesel/index.html (diesel engine info)
http://www.cattruckengines.com
http://www.funroadds.com (Cummins and Onan)
http://www.xantrex.com (inverter)
www.rvwebstore.com (water systems, filters and misc)
http://www.campingworld.com
http://www.allisontransmission.com
http://www.sewersolution.com
http://www.lifelinebatteries.com
http://www.meguiars.com
http://www.buschposlishes.com
 

Monday, May 13, 2013

Fulltimer's Primer on Coach Maintenance, Part 2

Rosemary Mancillas, Country Coach Magna owner, authored this article in 2005. As it is full of common sense maintenance info, I am happy to share it here in the blogspot.

Fulltimer's Primer, Part 2

ENGINE-There is no mystery to the maintenance on these Detroit, CAT or Cummins engines or the Allison transmissions. Just like a car, they need regular oil changes and lubrication. There are mileage related issues involving valve adjustments, fluid and filter changes, maintenance intervals for your engines that can be accessed in your engine manual or online from the manufacturer--some specific to RV usage. My Magna has a "homing" device that causes an annual spring migration to the Country Coach Factory Service Facility in Junction City, OR. I know my limitations and I rely on wonderful technicians at the factory and at rallies to work with me to keep my Magna running relatively problem free for another year. I appreciate this preventative maintenance and keeping an eye out for potential problems.

So far so good! I try to remain knowledgeable of scheduled maintenance items that need to be done so I know what to request of service. I have a maintenance info sheet for the engine (specific to an RV from CAT) and I keep track of when fluids need to be changed and other items needing inspection or adjustments. If I don't know what something is--I ask.  The bottom line is there is nothing like a great technician who knows his way around the engine and the chassis and who will look things over carefully to prevent possible problems.

I also highly recommend joining other "Class Reunion" rally in Oregon and attending seminars given about the coach and its components. You can never know enough. Some very knowledgeable owners and Country Coach writers wrote excellent articles in previous magazine issues. (Note: Although the days of Class Reunion Rallies are past, the annual Country Coach Friends Inc Friendship Rally is similar to the flavor of that Class Reunion format. Technical seminars are presented by several seasonsed highline service technicians, vendors like Carr Industries, Dickman Tire Center, and more.)

CHASSIS-The chassis is complicated because it involves so many components from mechanical to hydraulic to electrical to cosmetic. Some are common sense like spraying moving fricitional parts with WD-40 or some other lubricating, cleaning material. I have learned by experience what spare parts to carry with me on the road. By far the most space in my bays is taken up with cleaning materials, spare parts, tools, fluids and lubricrants.

I live full time in my Magna and travel around the country so I do not have easy access to a home base to keep items I might need. Extra fluids and light bulbs are a no-brainer, but I do carry an extra engine serpentine belt, spare ride height valves, lug nut covers, Onan generator maintenance items, some bay door gas springs, ligth fixtures, cabinet catches, exterior lens covers that seem to disappear, some miscellaneous hardware, tools, silicone and a variety of glue. Yes, I do have a rechargeable drill with interchangeable accessories that I use on occasion. I had to learn the difference between a machine screw and a wood screw. I am building a collection. Instead of a "button jar" or thimbles, I have a "screw jar." It's like cooking; I hate not having something handy that I need, so my cabinet is full of spices I might use once a year.

I made sure my owner's manual and chassis manuals are in a cabinet that is easily accessible in a pinch, not buried in the bay somewhere should I need to find them on the shoulder of a two-lane highway in the pouring rain. I guess I would have made a good Boy Scout "always prepared." I often wonder how on earth some folks have room for a TV cabinet and poker table, freezer and ping pong table in event these big Country Coach basements. They must not be full-timers and only travel 60 miles from home base.

Here is a "quick and dirty" list of critical maintenance issues.

1) Hydraulic Fluid needs to be checked carefully when "hot" (operating temperature) engine "off" with a clean rag or paper towel. Hydraulic fluid and filter should be changed every two years or 25,000 miles.

2) Wet Cell Batteries-Check water level at least once a month. More often if dry camping. Read the specific recommendations and directions for "equalizing" batteries to extend their life. Some people swear by this. I personally have not equalized my batteries and have not had any problems. (AGM or Lifeline batteries do not need fluid adde as they are sealed. They are recommended for the "house" but not engine cranking. Check with Lifeline about their recommendations for equalizing.) Wet cells typically last three to four years and Lifelines are guaranteed for five years.

3) Check Coolant Level-Be sure to add the SAME type of coolant (and 50/50 mix with distilled or de-ionized water only.) There are four types of coolants and they come in many colors. Read your label carefully. Standard coolant and Extended Life coolant should NEVER be mixed. (Coolant issues were covered in great detail in a previous article in the Destinations magazine by James Sonntag-Summer and Autumn 2004 issues.) Standard coolant needs to be tested for coolant additives (SCAs or DCAs) concentration and may need to be "recharged" with a supplemental coolant additive or filter replacement to prevent corrosion, mineral deposits and other damage. Check the coolant level in the generator as well.

4)Extended Life Coolant (ELC) has different requirements but needs to be tested once a year. Do NOT mix coolant types!

5) Check the Water Separator on the primary fuel filter for water contamination. Empty the water contaminated fuel out through the valve on the bottom and dispose of it appropriately.

6) Check Air Filter Indicator to see if the air filter needs replacement or is becoming blocked with dust. Reset the indicator and recheck after driving to be sure the reading is consistent.

7) Change Engine Thermostat every two to three years.

8) Caterpillar engines like my C-10-Change Engine Oil and Filter every 15,000 miles or one year. (Cummins has different requirements depending on the engine model. Check your Cummins manual.) If you are going to park the motorhome for a season, get the oild changed first!

9) Lubrication of zerk fittings and driveline universal joints and slip-joint every 5,000 miles or one year.

10) Transmission - Per Allison's recommendations: DEXRON III fluid and filters need replacing initially at 5,000 miles then 25,000 miles or two years. Allison's Transynd synthetic fluid needs only the filter replaced after 75,000 miles or three years, fluid and filter replacement in four years or 150,000 mile. (This schedule applies if the transmission was flushed thoroughly before changing to Transynd so there is little residue from the Dexron fluid.) (NOTE: Per Country Coach manufacturing engineering department, the following recommendations apply. Dexron III - Main filter only to be changed initially at 5,000 miles, thereafter fluid and both filters at 12 months or 25,000 miles, whichever comes first. This applies for both 30000MH and 40000MH model transmissions, shallow or deep sump. Transynd - Main filter only to be changed initially at 5,000 miles. Beyond initial 5,000 mile service, the requirements are as follows: a) 3000MH (ahallow or deep sump)-Change filters at 36 months or 75,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid to be changed at 48 months or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. b) 4000MH deep sump-filters to be changed at 24 months or 50,000 miles, whichever comes first. Fluid to be changed at 48 months or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. These previous service recommendations apply to non-retarder models.)

11) Keep Radiator Fins Clean to maintain an efficient, cool engine! Use air or a low pressure washer, steam and a degreaser. (No water in the "breather!")

... To Be Continued..........Chassis list, items 12-17, to follow in the next installment, along with other information.



Monday, May 6, 2013

Full Timer's Primer on Coach Maintenance, Part 1

Guest Post Authored by Rosemary Mancillas, Magna owner and one of the many Country Coach owners I call "friend".  The following article was originally printed in the former Country Coach, LLC magazine in 2005. Thanks, Rosemary for writing such a wonderful resource.

A Full Timer's Maintenance Primer, Part 1 by Rosemary Mancillas

I hate housework. I don't like turning a screwdriver or using a drill. I am not into building things or breaking them down, unless it is the written word. I hat oil, grease and battery acid. These are all good reasons to have a spouse-right? (Smile...we all have to have a purpose in life.) Some of my friends are nodding their heads right now because they have been trying to encourage me to "find someone." I am a widow for 12 years now and I have one "man" in my life (my poodle Sasha) and he would not appreciate sharing my attention with another male. But after three years of full timing in my 2000 Magna there are a lot of things I have learned from experience, reading and numerous seminars at Country Coach rallies that I will share with you here.

Just like a stationary home, prevention can save you beaucoup bucks. "Time is money"--the more time you spend on maintenance and attention to the big and little things, the less money you will have to spend in the long run. (That is the theory anyway.) I must admit that my initial expectations for maintenance costs were much lower than the reality. I have learned over the years that "you get what you pay for." I prefer not to skimp on preventative maintenance and I am not a "do-it-yourselfer."

Maintenance can be broken down in several categories-dialy, pre-flight (before a trip), and regular chassis and engine requirements.

I live fulltime in and drive a 2000 Magna. The newer coaches will have some differences; however overall maintenance is fundamentally the same. (I make no claims to the completeness or accuracy of these brief recommendations, since there are variations from model to model and year to year. If in doubt, read your manuals for your particular details or contact the vendor.) If all else fails, take the coach to a professional. I find my way back "home" to Junction City once a year to let Country Coach technicians and CAT technicians do important repairs and chassis maintenance. I do not trust just anyone to touch my coach. They are always my first choice for repairs if I am not across the country somewhere. Otherwise I rely on other owners for service center recommendations....There are also the Cummins Coach Care service centers in various locations around the country. Individual vendors will have factory service reps they can refer you to and are usually very good at troubleshooting problems, saving time and money.

Daily (parked) or "Pre-flight" Checks:

Since I have not one to divide my labor with, I have to spend much more time on pre-flight maintenance and it takes me longer to get on the road. But I just picture some catastrophic failure when I am tempted to skip something and I twist my own arm to leave late if I have to or stop sooner. There is a lot to cover, so some of these items will be very brief. Some might be "old news" to experienced drivers, but some may just need a refresher. If you have a SilverLeaf that monitors many of these things, it still might be safe to check the "old way" on occasion.

It pays to keep a watchful eye on your gauges--the inverter/charger, leveling system and electrical panels as well as the tanks, watching for anything that is out of the normal or safe readings.

1)  When parked or at a rest stop, look to see if there are any leaking fluids under the wheels, engine or chassis and examine the tires (tow car connections and tires, too).
2)  When your day of traveling is over, check your transmission fluid level with engine running and coach level. There is a simple procedure using the transmission shifter panel, simply press both arrow keys together twice to get a readout on the display showing that the oil level is "ok," or hi/lo followed by a number in quarts.
3)  Also at the end of the day's drive, it is recommended to purge air for about 10 seconds so moisture will be removed from the air system. This will reduce the risk of damage to braking/suspension valves and airbags from freezing moisture in the system. A large piece of clean paper laid on dry ground beneath your purge valves will show up any moisture that is expelled. The purge valves are located behind the front bumper on the passenger or driver side.
4)  Check your brake and turning lights on the coach and on the towed vehicle. Tow connection contacts may need cleaning. If the brake and turning lights have removable lenses, take them off and clean them every now and again. You will discover burned out bulbs and dirt that makes the lights dim.
5)  Check the hub oil level on your front and tag axle before driving.
6)  Check the engine oil on a regular basis just like a car. (I have never needed to add oil, but I do carry it.) Make sure the coach is level. Check the oil level with the engine "off." Hot engine: Wait at least 10 minutes after shutdown. Cold engine: Check it before you start the engine.
7)   Do a visual check of the engine serpentine belt. Check to see the "belt tensioner" is in the "green' and make sure the belt is tight, not frayed or damaged.
8)  Do a visual check of hoses and clamps for leaks. (Hint: Change all your standard worm style hose clamps to spring tensioned hose clamps.) **I will pause here for a public service announcement. Impress your friends and co-RVers in those maintenance seminars and most of all impress your technicians--Read Your Manual for specific detailed information, schedules for chassis or engine maintenance and correct fluids to be using. Believe me, after you have read it about 10 times, I guarantee you still won't remember it all, but you will know where to look for important infomation in a hurry. I use neon "Post-It" notes to mark important pages and I write the topic on the note sticking out to find it more easily. On more than one occasion a knowledgeable technician udes the schematics to make the repairs. I saved time and money by being able to lay hands on the schematics that were needed.

Tires:

I think tires require the most vigilance of all maintenance items. On most of the new tag axle motorhomes, weight is not usually an issue. But on older single rear axle models, your fully loaded weight has much to do with tire safety.

Learn about weight issues!
1)  Have your coach weighed on all four corners if possible and get the axle weight specs and obtain the tire specs from your tire manufacturer, use the formula to determine the correct air pressure for your tires under those loads. I will not go into detail here because there are worksheets available from the tire manufacturers for determining the correct air pressure. You just have to plug in the values and do the math. Although you previously heard recommendations to have your coach weighed on all four corners to get an axle weight, then to obtain the tire specs from your tire manufacturer, and using a set formula to determine correct air pressure for your tires under these loads, I recently consulted the team at Country Coach on the subject. I learned that this practice above which is called 'air to weight' is no longer recommended by the tire manufacturers or Country Coach. The current recommendation is 'air to placard' which means airing the tires to the pressures indicated on the federal tire tag inside the coach. However, weight still is a pertinent issue so you do not exceed the axle rating of the motorhome.
     Another important rating stamped on your tires, that many owners are not aware of is the "maximum speed" rating. It more than likely says 65 mph. Excessive speed can contribute to tire failure and apparently reduces the "tire load carrying capacity." So the next time I see one of you passing me at 75 and 80 mph on Interstate 10, I will assume you did not read my article and warning. It is really worth risking a blow-out at 80 mph and being responsible for harming yourself and some innocent travelers on the road? Slow down and enjoy the ride. You have precious cargo. Faster drivers have the use of the left passing lane to go around you.
2)  Check tire pressures every day you are driving. Tires should be "cold." (67 degrees ambient temperature is the benchmark for your "ideal" required air pressure.) For every ten degree drop in air temperature, tires lose a pound of pressure and vice versa. Keep the same air pressure across the axle and equal air pressure on duals. I have a "SmarTire" system that monitors the tires, but I still like to check them occasionally against a gauge to be sure it is reading correctly. I do recommend a tire monitoring system for peace of mind. Tire blowouts are not fun hurtling down the highway at 65 mph with the momentum of a 40,000+lb. motorhome. The newer systems can also monitor your towed vehicle.
3)  Protect tires from deterioration, dry rot and sun damage while parked for any length of time. When driving, additives in the rubber are released that help protect them, but when parked it is necessary to cover them with vinyl tire covers as well as UV treatments like "Aerospace 303." Sitting in water for long periods of time can also cause deterioration. (Do not use any petroleum based surface treatment products.) I had to order custom sized tire covers, but I figure my safety was worth the expense. It is foolish to use cheaper covers that leave three inches of tire exposed to sunlight. Russian roulette anyone? Always keep your tires properly inflated when parked for longer periods of time.
     HINT: "303" is also recommended for a roof protection treatment and all the external (exposed to sunlight) rubber gaskets on the motorhome slides, etc. Some people also recommend talcum powder on the slide gasket. I guess that will work when in storage, but not so well on the road.
     I spoke with one wonder who purchased a used coach that the previous owner swore was stored inside a hangar (in the sunny southwest) and they had three blowouts on their initial trip, while their granddaughter was in the motorhome. 'Nuf said?
4)  Check into having your tires "siped" by a reputable (truck) tire dealer that has a siping machine. Truckers do it for additional traction on slippery, wet surfaces. It involves adding additional "cuts" in a tire to give more area for water to be displaced. Les Schwab Tires/Bob Dickman Tire Center in Junction CIty installs SmarTire and does siping.
     It is not recommended that you use valve extenders on your dual tire valves. They can vibrate loose or a failed O ring can leak air causing under-inflation, overheating, and tire failure. One tire rep thought they might have caused most of the blowouts he saw on inside duals with extenders. An alternative is a screw-on "ball-spring or flow-through valve cap" (truckers use them too) and a Haltec straight line air gauge and air chuck. Talk to Les Schwab, they have theirs or can direct you to the manufacturer.
5)  Tires should be replaced when they approach five years of age regardless of tread depth. Period.
6)  Tires can be rotated from side to side and also inside out. 20,000 miles was one recommendation.
7)  Tire alignment needs to be checked by a recommended specialty shop if you have made changes in your load, had suspension work done, or notice uneven tire wear.....

TO BE CONTINUED IN ANOTHER POST.

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Oregon Fast Facts, like 750 vineyards produce 70 wine grapes varietals

Discover Oregon and attend a Friendship Rally (www.countrycoachfriendsincorporated.com)! Over the next few months, I'll be sharing some of the great reasons to travel to Oregon for leisure and recreation time. Not only is it the mother lode in terms of exceptional RV technicians, dealers, and RV related service providers, it is an AMAZING STATE!

Oregon Fast Facts! from www.traveloregon.com

Whether it is your first or tenth trip to Oregon, here are some quick tidbits to help you get to know this spectacular state.

Did you know:

  • Oregon has no sales tax.
  • Oregon’s birthday is Valentine’s Day, February 14, 1859.
  • Oregon is the 10th largest state in the union, covering 97,073 square miles.
  • Oregon is bordered by Washington, Idaho, Nevada, California and the Pacific Ocean.

A State of (Natural) Wonder (a.k.a largest, deepest, richest):

  • Crater Lake, at 1,932 feet deep, is the deepest lake in the United States.
  • Hells Canyon is the deepest river-carved gorge in North America. At 7,900 feet, it’s deeper than the Grand Canyon.
  • The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is one of the richest fossil sites in the world. You would need to travel to Pakistan to find a fossil bed that rivals this one.
  • The largest concentration of wintering bald eagles can be found in Klamath Forest National Wildlife Refuge.
  • The Malheur Wildlife Refuge is home to the largest freshwater marsh in the U.S.

History and Heritage

  • Oregon has four National Historic Trails and 14 National Historic Districts, including our namesake trail that pioneered Western expansion and urged dreamers to “Go West.”
  • Oregon has more than 7,000 bridges, including 53 covered bridges.
  • Nine historic lighthouses and one light ship dot the Oregon Coast.
  • Oregon is home to 10 Native American tribes.

Quirky Tidbits

  • Oregon is pronounced OR-UH-GUN, never OR-EE-GONE.
  • The Oregon hazelnut is the state’s official nut, and Oregon grows 99 percent of the entire U.S. commercial crop.
  • The pear is Oregon’s state fruit, ranking as the top-selling tree fruit crop.
  • There are more than 750 vineyards in Oregon, producing more than 70 different varietals of wine grapes.
  • Letting an attendant pump your gas is mandatory; you may not pump your own in the state of Oregon.

Geography

Oregon is a state of contrasts, with snow-dusted mountains, dramatic river canyons, lush valleys, rugged coast, arid plains and fertile fields. In fact, Oregon offers some example of every geographic terrain on the planet within its borders.
  • The highest elevation point is Mt. Hood at 11,239 feet, and the lowest is at sea level.
  • There are more than 6,000 lakes and 112,000 miles of rivers and streams.
  • Oregon contains more than 5,900 registered campsites along with 230 state parks and 13 national forests.
  • Nearly half of Oregon’s total area is forested – close to 30 million acres.
  • There are 16 known hot springs in Oregon.

Oregon Pop Culture

  • Portlandia. Put a bird on it.
  • Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood served as the scenic backdrop for the movie, The Shining.
  • One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest was based and filmed in Salem, Ore., where now stands the Museum of Mental Health.
  • The Goonies was filmed mostly in Astoria, Ore., with scenic cameo shots from other coastal towns.
  • Audience-favorite, Grimm, plays off the natural scenery in Oregon to produce its picturesque, cinematic appeal.
  • Portland first gained national attention for its music scene in the 1960s, when The Kingsmen and Paul Revere & the Raiders helped establish the city as a Northwest center for frat and garage pop. Today, all sorts of great local bands are making waves here, including M. Ward, The Decemberists, Horse Feathers, Laura Veirs, Portugal. The Man and Blind Pilot.
  • Ken Kesey’s masterful “Sometimes a Great Notion” explores the relationship between Oregon’s landscapes and its psyche.
  • Portland’s artists are varied and inspiring: Gus Van Sant, Matt Groening, Chuck Palahniuk, Beverly Cleary, Stephen Malkmus.

Saturday, May 4, 2013

DISCOVER OREGON before and after the 3rd Annual CCFI Friendship Rally

Over the next few months, I'll be sharing some of the great reasons to travel to Oregon for leisure and recreation time. Not only is it the mother lode in terms of exceptional RV technicians, dealers, and RV related service providers, it is an AMAZING STATE!  

There is a great rally being planned for August 21-25, the Country Coach Friends 3rd Annual Friendship Rally in Albany, Oregon. Over 300 motorcoach enthusiasts will gather at the Linn County Events Center, just following the Family Motor Coach Association's NW regional rally. It's a great time to come to Oregon: Learm more about rally memories to be made at www.countrycoachfriendsincorporated.com

In the meantime, here are some recreation suggestions for OREGON FUN found at http://traveloregon.com/ask-oregon/



Mt. Pisgah in Eugene is a great place to take dogs and go hiking. For an easier hike, look for the arboretum trails. If the weather is right there are some creeks in the parking area that a dog could play in.

Tryon Creek Trail near Portland is dog-friendly and just friendly, in general.

The coast is very dog-friendly with lots of hikes and even yurts that pets can stay in with you.

Cape Lookout South Trail near Tillamook is a great example of the Oregon Coast’s wide array of dog-friendly hiking trails.

Cape Perpetua’s Giant Spruce Trail: This trail is one of my favorites on the coast.

Eagle Cap Wilderness: Hurricane Creek near Joseph is a dog-friendly hike in the northeast of Oregon.

This book is a really good reference for hikes with dogs: http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/Best-Hikes-with-Dogs-Oregon-2nd-Edition-P705.aspx   Happy travels! Answered by Cari Soong, Ask Oregon Outdoor Adventure Expert on March 28th, 2013

We have a day and night to get from Portland to Eugene, what could we see on our way?
I am the AskOR Willamette Valley expert and I am happy to give you a few suggestions for enjoying our gorgeous region! If you would like to wine taste or if you are in to seeing some of the most beautiful country in the world, take hwy 99W out of Portland south all the way to Eugene. On your route, enjoy our small towns and villages and know that in each and every one of them you’ll find something good to drink and delicious local food to enjoy. You’ll be going right by the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum near McMinnville: http://www.evergreenmuseum.org  If you have ever wanted to see the Spruce Goose, this is its home!
Traveling further south along this route, you will come across my favorite place for local beer and food in Amity, OR at The Blue Goat Cafe: http://amitybluegoat.com  
Corvallis is a bustling town home to Oregon State University. Take the campus tour if you’d like or take a hike! A favorite Oregon hiking trail Mc Donald Dunn Forest: http://www.cof.orst.edu/cf/recreation/trails.php  I hike here a few times a month and there’s always something new to see.
In Albany enjoy their darling downtown area before heading again south on to Eugene again via hwy 99. A few tidbits about Albany… they happen to boast the most in number and varied styles of historic homes and buildings in the entire state of Oregon! Worth a stop for some photos of the gorgeous vintage abodes and a trip to the Albany Carousel Museum and studio is awesome: http://albanycarousel.com
A few places to dine in Albany:
Well… this is my short list. This could keep you busy far longer than a day and a night. Hope you enjoy your planning and your trip. Thanks for your question! Answered by Debbie Lusk, Ask Oregon Willamette Valley Expert on November 8th, 2012