Enhance Motorhome Dry Camping Experience

Blast from the Past Tech Topic: 

7 Tips to Enhance Dry Camping Experience

Originally addressed by the CC, Inc. Service Team in August 2001

 

The simplest answer is to reduce your use of the coach's electrical system.

Here are some suggestions

1. Turn off the inverter when AC power is not required. Although the inverter has an energy saving idle or 'search' mode, in practice it never activates due to parasitic loads such as the microwave clock and 'standby circuits' in TV's and VCR's, etc. Turning the inverter off when you are sleeping, for example, can gain you as much as three to four hours of dry camping time. When plugged in, the inverter can safely remain on.

2. Avoid or limit your use of AC heat producing appliances such as small heaters, the microwave, toasters, curling irons, and coffee makers, etc. If making coffee, just make enough for one cup each and then turn the coffee maker off to prevent the 'hot plate' from discharging your batteries further. A microwave, for example, can pull over 130 amps from the batteries in use.

3. Avoid using bay freezers when dry camping, but if necessary, these should be powered by 12V with the temperature setting adjusted to a minimum.

4. When using your propane or diesel heating system, reduce the temperature settings and use warmer clothing or bedding.

5. Turn off any lights and fans, etc. that are not being used. If the icemaker in your refrigerator runs on inverter power, then this should also be turned off.

6. An important consideration when recharging your batteries is how long the generator will have to run to obtain a full charge. For heavily discharged batteries, this can vary from three hours for two 8D liquid cell batteries, to over ten hours for four AGM batteries. Owners of coaches with larger battery banks will unlikely run their generator long enough to fully charge their batteries and therefore usually experience reduced dry camping time after their initial arrival. 

7.  If your budget allows, installing solar panels will significantly increase dry camping time, and the energy they produce is free, silent, and environmentally friendly. Solar panels do have a limited output however, so maximum gains will be achieved when they are used in conjunction with the energy saving suggestions above

ANOTHER TECH QUESTION: SHOULD I DUMP ALL AIR FROM LEVELING SYTEM BEFORE LEVELING?

ANSWER: While there is no requirement to do so, it won’t harm the system and is a completely acceptable practice. There are two main advantages to dumping first which may appeal to you. The first is that the entry steps will be as low as possible once the coach is leveled. The second is that the coach may feel more “solid” and less “spongy” with some of the air springs completely empty and resting on their internal stops. The only downside (sorry, I just couldn’t help myself) is that under certain conditions it may take longer for the coach to level. Originally addressed by then Country Coach Service Technical Resources Manager in Autumn 2007

*Note: CC, Inc./CC, LLC, the original manufacturer of Country Coach Motorcoaches, closed its doors in November 2009. However, these beautiful motorcoaches are still among the finest on the roads today!  Many gather with owners of other brand coaches a Country Coach Friends rallies. Check that club out!

Essential RV Parts

10 Essential RV Spare Parts

 

In a recent article, MotorHome Magazine staff recently listed 10 items to carry along on your motorhome adventures and why you should do so. Items included LP-gas regulator, Water pump parts, Water pressure regulator, AC generator filter, Thermocouples and electrodes, 12-Volt-DC fuses, 12-Volt-DC light bulbs, Sewer drain cap, Oil, Other essential or handy RV items: Flashlight batteries, nylon cable ties, silicone or other sealant, duct and electrical tape, and a set of tools for the level of maintenance/ repair of which you are capable….

They noted:   

“…Carry these inexpensive items to save time, money and trouble on the road. Finding an RV repair shop while you’re on the road can be a challenge. While RV repair shops are numerous, they’re not as common as general automotive repair shops and parts houses. It’s not practical to carry an extensive complement of spares due to space limitations, but the following is a list of several that are pertinent for consideration, along with comments on what to do if you don’t have a specific spare…. Along with spare parts, essentials should include reference material that could be helpful, such as an appliance manufacturer’s troubleshooting guide and a parts list for your specific water heater, refrigerator or furnace. These usually can be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website. Don’t forget to perform recommended maintenance on schedule to minimize component failures…” —Read the article in its entirety HERE

 http://www.motorhome.com/tech/diy/10-essential-rv-spare-parts/

Motorhome Propane Tank Question

Guest Post

Propane Tank Question

...a still relevant question answered at a rally years ago by Miles Hartmann, a former Service Rep with the defunct Country Coach, Inc

We had to “burn off” a third of a tank of propane in order to have the fuel gauge replaced. The shop said the tank had to be empty before the gauge could be removed. However, after the gauge was replaced and before the tank was refilled, the stove would light? We cooked dinner in fact? How could this happen?

 

A 40-gallon tank with four gallons of liquid propane has potential to create 89 pounds of pressure when fully gassed. Propane boils at 44 degrees F. When liquid propane is sealed in a tank and the temperature rises above 44 degrees F. pressure is being built up. Just as a pressure cooker builds pressure when the water boils, the only difference is the temperature required to start the liquid to boil. Any time the temperature is 44 degrees F. or higher a tank with liquid propane will continue to gas and build pressure.

When a propane tank is evacuated or burned off quickly, the tank’s temperature drops to below 44 degrees F.  This causes the liquid propane to cool below its gassing point. At this time, even though 10 percent of the tank’s capacity is still in the tank in the form of liquid propane, the internal pressure will be near zero

 

To read more technical articles or learn about a great motorhome owners club visit CountryCoachFriendsIncorporated.com

Motorhome Oxidation Run Off

Dealing with Oxidation Run-off--Those White Streaks on Coach Exterior

as shared by Premier RV Services

Are you noticing white streaks on the sides of the RV? Wondering what the cause is, how to clean the unslightly streaks, and how to avoid further oxidation from occurring?

     The white streaks you’re seeing are oxidation run-off from the gelcoat on your roof fiberglass. Gel coat is the smooth outer special resin layer of the fiberglass used in the build of our coach. Oxidation is a result of the sun's UV exposure on the gel coat. Although it does not present any structural concerns, of course you’d like to avoid this. Regular maintenance will help protect the roof surface from ultraviolet radiation. First let’s address removing the streaks.

     Cleaning the streaks on the side of the coach and the coach roof fiberglass

     Try a solution of one cup of detergent and a gallon of warm water to remove the streaks. Add a cup of bleach to this solution to take care of any mildew that may have formed on your roof too. If the streaks remain after washing with the soap solution, look for a fiberglass cleaning product that should be readily available at any good RV or marine accessory store. (For example, Gel Gloss Heavy Duty Cleaner and Wax from Camping World is one. Some RVers swear by Simple Green cleaner…just enter RV Fiberglass Cleaner into your favorite internet search engine and you’ll discover a wide offering of products. Just be sure they are non-abrasive.)

     To prevent the oxidation from recurring, apply a coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant to your roof's surface every six months to year depending on the level of sun exposure. 303 Aerospace Protectant info is available on the manufacturer web site at www.303products.com.

 

Fiberglass Care Basic Do’s and “Don’ts

DO clean fiberglass as dirt and residue appears.

DO avoid cleaning fiberglass surfaces in direct sunlight or extreme temperatures.

DO start at the top and continue to lower levels

DO soak fiberglass surface with clean water and soap to loosen debris (rinse off excessive dirt/debris as a first step)

DO use a mild, non-abrasive commercial cleaning solution as needed, but remembering to thoroughly rinse off all of the cleaning solution.

DON’T use scrapers of any type when cleaning fiberglass.

DON’T allow residue/dirt on the exterior for extended periods of time.

DON’T clean fiberglass in direct sunlight/extreme temps.

DON’T use abrasive cleaning solutions or materials.

DON’T allow metal parts of cleaning equipment to make contact with fiberglass.

DON’T allow abrasive debris/dirt particles between cleaning materials and fiberglass surface.

 

Website: www.PremierRVServices.com

Motorhome Tips on Hydro-Hot Hydronic System

Keepin’ Yourself in Hot Water….the Hydro-Hot Hydronic Heat System

Over the years the now former CC, LLC service team shared a great info dealing with ‘not enough hot water', shared at both at rally seminars and in the former Destinations magazine.

Here We Offer Thanks to Pete Kaye, former CC,LLC Service team member, for this info -- It is still a great refresher.

LOW DC SUPPLY VOLTAGE

The Indicator light on the electronic control panel lights Red when the DC voltage level is too low for the unit to operate properly. When this faul happens, the burner doesn’t start when the “diesel” switch in the coach is activated--even though the Green light on the switch panel is lit. Verify there is adequate supply voltage to the controller (see your Hydro-Hot manual), then clear the fault by using a thin, straight, non-conductive object to press the recessed Low Voltage Reset button located on the electronic control panel.

INCOMING WATER TEMPERATURE

Let’s say we want a constant output of 1.5GPM at 115 degrees F. If the water coming from the fresh water tank into the unit is 60 degrees, the unit is rated to deliver this. However, if the incoming water temperature is lower, you may expect a decrease in hot water quantity (GPM) or temperature. Keep in mind, ambient air temperature in the fresh water tank bay has a direct effect on the output of the heating unit.

COLD WATER MIXING

If the hand-held shower in the plumbing bay is turned off at the shower head but the valves for both the hot and cold water are left open, some inadvertent mixing may occur.

TOO MUCH DEMAND

Shower heads and faucets all place demand on hot water supply especially when used simultaneously. The flow rating for just a shower head inside the coach can be as much as 2.5 GPM. When in use, this alone can consume all the hot water available when showering at average temperature. When the water temp demand is increased, or when the water tank bay is cold, the capacity of the system can be exceeded.

 

The original manufacturer Country Coach, LLC closed its doors in 2009. Today there are several great service centers in the Lane County area to attend to your service needs, including Premier RV of Oregon, Oregon Motorcoach Center and more. Check the Country Coach Friends Club's Member Benefits list online to learn more

Country Coach Exhaust Brake Tips

Guest Post:

Country Coach Exhaust Brake Tips

 

The exhaust brake is designed for frequent cycling during daily transit and can develop problems - such as a stiff or seized butterfly plate – with infrequent use. Starting the engine and stopping it before it has reached normal operational temperature will amplify the problem, particularly in humid conditions where moisture is developed within the engine and exhaust system at initial startup.

To avoid problems after periods of extended inactivity, here are a couple tips:

1) Lubricate all moving parts of the exhaust brake assembly every four months.

2) Periodically start your engine, allow it to reach full operating temperature, then with the engine not running, cycle the ignition switch from off to on several times to actuate the exhaust brake.

by James Jordan, former Country Coach Service Training Developer

Oregon Service Center Announces New Storage Facility

Country Coach Specialists!

This trusted service and sales facility in Junction City, Oregon “checks all the boxes” when you are looking for premier one-stop motorhome care!

 

x Preowned Coach Sales
x Full Service Center
x Paint & Body Shop
x Indoor Secured Storage

 

 

Highline Diesel Coach Sales Specialists!…it’s the PLACE to go with your Country Coach or other Highend Diesel Motorhome. Consignments needed. Premier RV of Oregon also purchases motorhomes. Trades welcomed. Inventory online.

 

Full Service, Paint & Body. No job too big or too small. All makes & models serviced. Experienced highline technicians who KNOW your coach.

 

Indoor Secured Climate Controlled Storage for when you're not out on the road enjoying your motorhome, watercraft, or autos.

 

New Storage Building Complete October 1, 2018!

Come take a tour at 325 E 1^st Ave in Junction City

 

Proud CCFI club business partner/Generous Rally Sponsor. CCFI 10% Parts Discount!

One Year Free CCFI Club Membership when you purchase a motorhome from Premier RV!

premierrvoforegon.com  

Office Phone 541-998-2640