GUEST POST
Preparing Your Motorhome for Winter Storage
*prepared by Gary Obermire,
Premier RV Services
(Gary was formerly Senior VP of Operations and Engineering at the former Country Coach Manufacturing Company, Country Coach LLC. He is now co-owner of Premier RV Services, which offers preowned highline motorhome sales, full coach service and renovations, and indoor coach storage. Premier is located on 26 acres of the former CC manufacturing plant in Junction City, OR. His knowledge base on all aspects of Country Coach motorcoaches is extensive. I appreciate this timely info just in time for cooler weather)
Over the years I have been asked about a few
subjects many times. One of the most popular topics is: Winterizing the Coach for Storage. Let’s
revisit that subject today which I’m sure you’ve seen covered numerous times,
but a reminder is always in order as we look toward the winter months. For
those who are not heading south and are parking the coach for the cold months
of winter, it is time to winterize. There are two winterizing processes to
consider.
One option Replacing the water in your coach's plumbing
system with RV antifreeze. This is somewhat time consuming during both
the winterization and dewinterization process when the RV antifreeze must be
flushed completely from the system to eliminate the substance’s lingering taste
from your water supply.
Or another option is toclear water from your coach
plumbing system using low pressure compressed air. Many Country Coach models with a toilet with
accumulator tank, or diesel fired water heater can only be winterized with RV
antifreeze. That’s because the compressed air process will not clear the water
from some areas of the plumbing system. This includes all-electric coaches
where the water heater is not easy to drain. Winterization could be a combination
of both RV antifreeze and air, like when the coach will be in extreme cold
regions during the winter. The process used is a matter of preference, but a
coach with a toilet with an accumulator tank and diesel or electric water heaters
will have some specific requirements (detailed
below).
CAUTIONS FIRST:
1. The water you will be draining
from your coach can be very hot and may cause scalding.
2. If you decide to go with the RV
antifreeze process, be aware of the terminology used throughout this article.
You will need to purchase 'RV antifreeze', not 'antifreeze' or 'coolant' which
is for engine use. The RV antifreeze you choose should be specifically designed
for winterizing RV plumbing systems, and it should be non-toxic.
3. If you have chosen to use the
compressed air process, you should ensure that the air supply is filtered to
remove both particulate matter, and oil/water emulsion. The air pressure should
be regulated to no more than 50psi to prevent damage to the plumbing system.
4. Wear old clothes. RV antifreeze
is usually colored and stains clothing, plastic or paint. Spills need cleaned
up promptly.
WINTERIZING PROCESSES
A) Air pressure process:
1. Turn off both heat sources for
the water heater - electric and propane (if
not an all electric coach). The electric heat source can be turned off at the
appropriately labeled breaker in the distribution panel.
2. Empty the holding tanks at an
appropriate location and drain the fresh water tank also. Use the leveling system
to lean your coach to the driver's side to empty the tanks as much as possible.
3. Open all low point drain valves
usually located behind water pump access panel in water bay.
4. Locate the drain plug at the
bottom of water heater and remove it to drain the contents of the water heater
tank. Opening the PTR release valve usually located above the drain plug helps
the water drain more quickly. Replace the drain plug and close the PTR release
valve when the water heater is empty.
5. Adjust the regulator of a clean
air source to a maximum of 50psi then connect it to the city water connection
using a winterizing adaptor (found at Camping World). The city water connection
on your coach is either a retractable hose, or a female hose fitting in the
water bay.
6. When water stops coming out of
the drain valves, close them and continue by opening the hot and cold faucets
throughout the coach until only air comes out, then close them also. Put a wet
wash cloth over the faucet to avoid splashes as the air purges. Don't forget to
open the shower fixture and the faucet in the water bay.
7. Flush toilet til air comes out
and cycle washer /dryer on warm setting to clear water from lines.
8. Cycle icemaker (following manufacturer's instructions) until
air purges from the supply line.
9. Set your coach back into a level
position and activate the fresh water fill to clear water from this circuit
into the fresh water tank. Next disconnect the air hose and connect it
momentarily to the sewer flush to clear water from lines.
10. Cycle the water pump for about
one minute until it is only pumping air. Remove the bowl from the water filter
housing and drain the contents. Discard the filter and securely replace the
bowl. You will need to install a new filter after de-winterizing your coach.
11. Lastly, protect the P-traps
throughout your coach by pouring RV Antifreeze into all the basin drains
including those in the galley, bathroom and shower. Pour about a half gallon of
RV antifreeze into your washer/dryer and run it through a cycle to ensure its
P-trap is protected, then fill your toilet bowl with the remaining half gallon.
B)
RV antifreeze process:
If
you chose this option, it is probably because you have an all-electric coach, or
your coach has a toilet with an accumulator tank or diesel fired water heater.
This process requires about ten gallons of RV antifreeze to be pumped into your
coach plumbing system using one of these methods.
~
Pump the RV antifreeze into the plumbing system through the city water
connection using an external water pump hooked to 12-volts. This method though
preferred does require the purchase of a second water pump. This second pump
can then be retained as a spare in the case your onboard water pump should fail
sometime in the future.
~
Disconnect the coach’s onboard pump from the fresh water tank and use it to
pump RV antifreeze into the plumbing system. This method may seem ideal, but
disconnecting your pump from the fresh water tank requires manual dexterity and
patience. You also run the risk of damaging fittings which can be difficult to
repair. Use caution with this. Now for the process:
1. Complete steps 1 and 2 of the
above air pressure process.
2. Open all low point drain valves,
usually located behind the water pump access panel in the water bay. Open all
faucets throughout the coach to help the water drain more quickly. Don't forget
the water bay faucet and shower fixture need opened, and flush the toilet
repeatedly until water stops flowing.
3. Once the water stops flowing
from the low point drains, set your coach back into a level position then cycle
the water pump for about one minute until it is only pumping air. Then close
all the faucets and remove the water filter bowl to dump the contents. Replace
the water filter bowl securely to prevent leaks.
4. With the low point drains still
open, pump RV antifreeze into the plumbing system using one of the three
methods above until it begins to flow from the low point drains. Then close
these drains.
5. While still pumping RV
antifreeze into the coach, open the cold water side of the faucets throughout
the coach until the RV antifreeze begins to flow, then turn them off. Repeat the
process for the hot water side of the faucets which takes longer because the RV antifreeze must fill the
water heater also.
6. Short cycle the washer/dryer on
a warm setting to fill these lines and P-trap with RV antifreeze. Next, cycle
the toilet until RV antifreeze fills the bowl.
7. Cycle the icemaker (following the manufacturer's instructions)
until the ice tray fills with RV antifreeze.
8. If you chose to use an external
pump to drive RV antifreeze into the plumbing system, it can now be
disconnected and hooked up to the sewer flush to clear these lines using about
1/8th gallon of solution.
9. Last, repeat step 2 above to
drain most of the RV antifreeze from the plumbing system. This last step
provides some room for expansion should the system freeze in severe weather. This
is especially important for water heaters in all-electric coaches that can’t be
completely drained and will not receive the same protection as the rest of the
system because the RV antifreeze will have been diluted by the water that
remained in the water heater tank. This water that remains after draining will
not cause any damage to the heater in the unlikely event that it should freeze.
The same is true of the holding tanks which also cannot be completely drained.
At Premier RV
Services in Junction City, Oregon, all clients’ motorcoaches are stored within a secured, climate controlled
building, so the winterization process described above is not necessary.
Premier RV Services is happy to assist
you with all your coach service including preparing the coach for storage.
Located on 26+ acres of the former Country Coach Inc campus, Premier offers
Full Service, Indoor Heated Secured Storage, and Pre-Owned Highline Motorcoach
Sales. Visit any time at 325 E First Avenue, in Junction City, OR; the coffee
pot is always on. www.PremierRVServices.com
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