Holiday Lights on Oregon Coast

 

HOLIDAY LIGHTS

26th annual Holiday Lights at Shore Acres State Park..."a community tradition" 

 Sponsored by Friends of Shore Acres, Inc. in partnership with Shore Acres State Park, Coos Bay, Oregon 

The brightest and most beautiful place on the West Coast shines as brightly as ever in 2012. 300,000 lights (almost all L.E.D.) Thanksgiving thru New Year's Eve - 4:00 - 9:30 PM every night (including Christmas Eve, Christmas and New Year's Eve). Walk-thru Display - All abilities accessible. Open Garden House with hot cider, punch, coffee and cookies! Information & Gift Center Open every night! 

Plenty of Parking. Parking fee: $5 per vehicle or current OPRD Annual Parking Pass or Coastal Passport or current OPRD Campground Receipt or current Special Access Pass. No additional charge for lights viewing.

More vibrant L.E.D. lights again were the hit of the 2011 season. An estimated 57,768 visitors viewed the lights display and enjoyed the refreshments in the decorated Garden House and the entertainment in the Performance Pavilion.
 
Lights Sculptures: Pelicans, Puffins, Jellyfish, Shore Acres' Cranes, Life-size leaping Orca whale, Life-size spouting Gray whale, Tulips, Rhododendron, Rose, Dahlia, Dungeness crab, Sea Star, Sea Urchin, Sea Anemone, Sea horse, Octopus, Kelp, Frogs, Butterflies, dragonfly, playful sea lions, leaping frog in pond, ship, fuchsia flower and hummingbird and more! 

For more information, Shore Acres State Park, 541- 888-3732. 89814 Cape Arago Hwy,, Coos Bay, OR 97420, 866-888-6100.

Hooking up a Brake Controller

Hooking up a Brake Controller for your towed vehicle or trailer

This is one of the many helpful articles authored over the years by service specialists within the former Country Coach LLC’s Service Department. Although the company closed its doors in late 2009…the information provided over the years is still of good information to motorcoach owners…enjoy…

Question: How do I hook up a brake controller for my trailer or towed vehicle?

Answer: This “do it yourself” project will not require a lot of specialized tools. Depending on the weight of your trailer or tow car, an auxiliary braking system may be a legal requirement insome states. Many states have reciprocal agreements that may or may not exempt one from compliance. Legal issues aside, many coach owners say their coach actually brakes better with an auxiliary braked trailer than it does with no trailer attached. Cautionary note: Consider a break-away feature for your trailer or tow car as a safety factor.

Wires. There are some wires you’ll need to access in order to tie the auxiliary braking system into your coach.

You’ll need to supply +12V power to operate the controller and you’ll need some way to let the controller know that you have applied the service brake of the coach.    

#52 – this 16g yellow wire comes from the brake switch relay and goes to a number of components, including the tow board. You will find it under the dash as well as in the steering bay. It provides a +12V signal when the service brake is engaged.      

#34 – this 16g yellow wire is the ignition power wire. As you can imagine, it is connected to quite a few components both under the dash and in the steering bay. It provides a +12V source when the ignition is on.

Ground. You may connect to any of the ground studs available in the dash area or steering bay. Or create your own ground with a good mechanical connection to a clean metal surface.

Spare wires. There are spare wires that run from the steering bay to the back of your coach. Depending on which model coach you have, locate spare wires on a terminal strip located in either the engine compartment or the service bay. You will need one of these to connect the output signal from your brake controller to the trailer or tow car portion of the auxiliary system. Some auxiliary braking systems require a connection to the pneumatic system of your coach. Due to the complexity of this system, you may free to contact Premier RV Services for additional information if you are installing this style of controller.

Not a DIY type person? You can contact a trusted service center to make an appointment for qualified Service specialists to take care of this for you. I’d recommend Premier RV Services (www.PremierRVServices.com) or Oregon Motorcoach Center (www.oregonmotorcoachcenter.com)or Country Coach Corporation (www.CountryCoach.com) if you’re in the Northwest.In the Southwest there’s Premier Motorcoach Services or Lazydays RV at Tucson, or in the South Central there’s Platinum Coach & RV, Motorhomes of Texas, Indoor Coach Storage and Service and Foretravel of Texas. Out east there’s Fountain RV and Lazydays RV.

[Again, Thanks to the CC, LLC Service Team for authoring the original article]

Until Next Time, 
Sherry
* Check out a Country Coach Owners Club open to motorcoaches of all brands at www.countryoachfriendsincorporated.com

Top 10 List-Most Beautiful...?

A New List for the Annual Tradeshow in Louisville?

If the Manufacturers Tradeshow held annually in Louisville, Kentucky included an

annual list of 10 most beautiful people in the RV industry I wonder what the 
criteria for making that list would be? And who might make the list? 

What would MY list look like? For me "beautiful" is a bright mind...A big passion...

An unflappable spirit...A deep conviction...A driving force...A joy in living that sustains 

one through the mountain top and desert places.

Here are a few Beautiful People I've encountered as I've traveled the

RV industry road these past 20+ years.

10) Damon Rapozo...when it comes to Motorcoach Product Knowledge (specifically 

Country Coach) he corners the market. To be a motorcoach sales person you have to 

also be trustworthy and loyal to your customers...Damon possesses a honest to

goodness love of people...which is why www.damonrapozo.com is a popular website

9) Jerry and Sherry O Connor. Thanks to a strong Work Ethic the O Connors 

reached the place where they could fully enjoy their mobile lifestyle. Meet up with 

Jerry and Sherry, and you're struck immediately by their welcoming personalities and 

that perpetual inner flame for Country Coach and the RV lifestyle. They Love Club Life 

(they are members of seven different clubs) and have a great outlook!   

As they travel down the road in their amazing Country Coach Prevost, their warm hand 

of Friendship and genuine interest in people touch all they meet. They epitomize for me 

the Country Coach owner. Class, Warmth, Love of the Lifestyle and Fellow Travelers

8) Opal Hale. I worked with many people over the years, but this petite little 

red-headed Dynamo taught me So Much about the catering side of a rally contract...

what to demand, what was fair market pricing on everything from a pony keg to a prime

rib dinner...what holds up best on a plate when you'll be serving 800 at a sitting...and 

she put in the hours! She was unflappable...under pressure she worked smarter, more

efficiently. When Opal had my back we were unstoppable! Thank you for being a part 

of my journey, Opal! I learned so much from you, and then knowing how you had risen 

above challenging circumstances and not only survived them but went on to become 

a savvy business woman, I am doubly in awe of your gifts.

7) Carol Taylor Clay. She taught me that when your manager says "Yes" to upper 

management on multi-step marketing campaigns, her whole team must figure out how 

to get it done...When Carol went to a management meeting she became known for 

saying Yes...and her team was often assigned new projects that also often came with 

"very short deadlines." My work ethic was sharpened during this period of my career as 

we delivered Results, not excuses. (Now I won't lie, privately I thought more than 

once "Seriously? You Didn't take that on too?!" But we always put creative hats on and 

shoulders to the plow and we made it happen.) Carol is on my list because through her 

management style I learned to adapt, work fast, think on my feet, to work smart,

improvise and get it done! And to have FUN while doing it!

6) Julie Otis. She defined loyalty, friendship and unparalleled commitment to her job on

the Country Coach team. If she believed in the program, if she trusted her manager(s),

she was ALL IN...I never had to question if the job was done. She'd move heaven

and hell to get it done. I lost my right arm when Julie left Country Coach. She went

on to lend her considerable expertise to another Oregon company and I hope they

realize what a Jewel they have in Julie. 

5) Matt Howard. Smartest individual I ever worked with, bar none. A truly brilliant mind. 

And I'll always appreciate his generosity to me and his faith in me! He removed barriers, 

held a mirror to my professional self and said "Use your gifts to make me look good..." 

then let me manage the Marketing and Technical Publication departments.He taught me 

that good leaders surround themselves with capable people who have a robust tool kit to 
succeed and then actually let's that team "make you look good"....I owe him a great deal....

and I STILL go to Matt when I don't know how to do something or for advice on things as I 

continue my Marketing adventure within this industry.

4) Terry Lee. It's just been in the last few years that I fully realized the amazing 

lady Terry Lee, Bob Lee's wife and partner, is and has been through out her career 

in this industry. Strong, unshakable, a wiz with finances, and supportive of husband 

Bob through all the highs and lows this industry has taken them through. I consider her 

a good friend to me. In my lowest professional period, it was a few conversations with this 

woman that helped me find my "next steps" after Country Coach, LLC had closed and I 

had invested a challenging 365 days immediately thereafter in an endeavor that left me 

somewhat soured and disenchanted. Terry was right in her advice--she probably doesn't

even know how close attention I paid to those phone conversations. I stayed the course; 

remained true to myself and continued in the field and RV industry I love...I'm thankful the 

unpleasant 1 percent of motorcoachers didn't sour me on my career path.

These days I look forward to each opportunity we have to catch up and I hold Terry in

the highest esteem! What a gifted, wise and loyal friend. Definitely a Beautiful person.

3) Vern and Phyllis Meighen--long time Country Coach owners who were the ultimate 

RV Rally Host and Hostess I ever worked with. Vern and I enjoyed a multi-year rally

planning "marriage" as we planned and presented a large annual rally in Oregon

for hundreds of motorcoaches. Vern has a sense of humor and a gift of gab at the

microphone unmatched in this industry! And Phyllis defines Class Act! At the 2012

Friendship Rally he announced on the last night of the rally he must "divorce me"

since he had retired from that position. He and Phyllis will remain family,

welcomed at the Fannings' dinner table anytime. I learned so much from them.

2) Pete Sutton (www.bottlecapsdesign.com) is the most talented graphic designer

I ever met in this industry or outside of the industry. Currently busy marketing

Marathon Coach Corporation, Pete did for many years work in my department as

a Country Coach graphic artist responsible for Destinations magazine design and

many of the department's P.O.P and branding materials I managed. A man of

integrity, with more talent in his one pinky than I'll ever have, I relied on Pete heavily a

nd he always delivered! I know I have his lasting friendship and he has my lasting

admiration. Wherever he goes, I'm envious of anyone who has access to his talents. 

1) Bob Lee. Wow! I began this list with a definition of who'd make my beautiful people

list: For me "beautiful" is a bright mind...A big passion...An unflappable spirit...A deep

conviction...A driving force...A joy in living that sustains thru the mountain top and

desert places." ...Well that's Bob Lee. This MH/RV Hall of Fame inductee and founder

of Country Camper/Country Coach is ALL of those things. He is a pioneer in the RV 

industry, an enterprising entrepreneur who took a dream and made it reality...an

employer whose accessibility and open door policy created an employee base that

was comprised of some of the most loyal and talented employees in the industry.

He led by example, worked as hard as his Country Coach team, while serving in

various capacities within the industry he loves for many, many years. He has earned

his place in history and his #1 spot on my ten most beautiful people in the RV industry.

Maintenance Tips for the Mature Motorcoach Part 3

.......and now the conclusion of one of my favorite articles authored by Country Coach electrical engineer (and former service manager) Brian Keys

ELECTRICAL - Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach - Part 3 of 3 by Brian Keys,  electrical engineer at former Country Coach, LLC motorcoach manufacturer

Well folks, this is the last in a series of maintenance articles for the older Country Coach that began in the spring issue with a look at filter maintenance, and continued in the summer issue with a close look at the DynoMax chassis. This article will focus on the electrical gremlins that might take residence in your coach as the years pass by, and the steps you should take to eradicate them.

Before we continue, let us discuss a few notes of caution that you should be aware of when working on both low and high voltage electrical systems.  They are as follows:

* Low voltage electricity such as 12-volt or 24-volt does not present a risk of electrical shock. Battery and starter cables, however, carry a lot of current which can cause severe burns should a short circuit occur. Always remove the negative battery cable first and never allow the tool you are using to remove the positive cable to contact the chassis.

* Batteries give off explosive gasses. You should not work in close proximity to the batteries if they are gassing for any reason. If it does become necessary, you can cover the top of the battery completely with a water-soaked towel to absorb the gasses being produced.

* High voltage such as 120-volts or 240-volts can kill. Make absolutely sure that the circuit is not hot before you work on it. Don't assume that the circuit is dead because you have turned the switch off; use a test meter or similar to verify that the circuit is not powered.

* Think twice before working on 240-volt systems such as the transfer switch or shore cord. A simple wiring error in this system can result in an 'open neutral' that will typically destroy much of the high voltage electrical quipment in your coach such as the inverter, microwave, entertainment systems, etcetera. For this reason, and to avoid shock hazard, never use a “lollipop stick” or similar device to hold down the contacts of a failed transfer switch. It is a popular band-aid solution, but one that carries a lot of risk to both you and your coach.

With that out of the way, let's continue!

High Voltage Systems!

1. Transfer Switch.

Does your transfer switch shake, rattle and roll? Hopefully not, but it might develop a hum or chatter that would indicate dust or other contamination is preventing the relays from closing fully. With the switch un-powered, try blowing out any dust with high pressure compressed air. If you have an older transfer switch that has a small diode and capacitor between the relays, the ideal solution is to replace the switch. Those of you who are familiar with soldering can source a new diode and capacitor from Radio Shack, but the relays will often have reached their service life in this transfer switch and will (according to Murphy's Law) fail at the most inconvenient time. Does your coach mysteriously drop just one 'leg' of power after about thirty minutes of running on generator power? Does this leg of power cycle off and on? If this is true, then the likely culprit is a broken coil winding in one of the transfer switch relays. The two ends of the break will make contact when the coil is cold, but will separate again as the coil heats up due to thermal expansion. This is a common symptom with old transfer switches and for this reason, I again recommend that an old transfer switch should be replaced, not repaired.

2. Voltage Monitor or 'GFI' Circuit Board.

Do you regularly hear computer voices warning you that your shore cord polarity is reversed? If so, then you are probably very familiar with the location of the mute switch for the voice monitor system. To cure the actual problem will require replacement of the GFI Circuit Board. This board will probably have been damaged by a voltage spike on shore power and is typically located in the overhead dash above the passenger seat, or in the 'AC Feeder Panel' above the transfer switch.

Charging System

1. Battery Isolator.

This item is located in the engine compartment and was used on coaches with a Gillig chassis to allow the alternator to charge both chassis and domestic batteries while keeping them electrically isolated from each other. If you have a Gillig coach and your alternator is only charging one set of batteries, then the battery isolator has most likely failed. Failed isolators will usually have some cracking around one or more of the battery cable studs. The battery isolator is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side.

2. Charge/Boost Relay.

DynoMax coaches are equipped with a charge/boost relay in place of the aforementioned battery isolator. This relay connects the chassis and domestic batteries together when the engine is running so they both receive a charge. It also connects the two battery banks together when the 'battery boost' switch is operated to start your engine when the chassis batteries are low. If the alternator is only charging the chassis batteries and not the domestic batteries, then this component has likely failed and needs to be replaced.

3. Echo Charger.

This neat device provides a trickle charge to your chassis batteries from the domestic batteries when the latter is at 13-volts or higher, and it serves to keep your chassis battery charged when your coach is connected to shore power. If you experience problems keeping your chassis batteries charged then check the in-line fuses on the echo charger's wiring harness. These fuses typically fail when the chassis battery positive cable comes into contact with the frame during chassis battery replacement.

4. Battery Cables.

If you have a persistent charging problem that has so far defied all attempts at resolution, then take a close look at the battery cables. In particular, check to ensure the connections are clean and tight at the batteries, starter motor, alternator, and engine-to-frame ground cable.

5. Inverter Charging

Did your Heart Freedom 25, or Freedom 20 stop charging the domestic batteries for no apparent reason? If installed, does your Link 2000 show that the domestic batteries are receiving a bulk charge when they are in fact discharging? If so, then the first thing to check is the 300-amp, or 250-amp fuse on the inverter's positive battery cable. A voltage check across this fuse that measures anything other than 0-volts would indicate that this fuse has failed. If the fuse checks out good, then try hitting the upper right corner of the inverter's front panel with a closed fist (not a hammer!) once or twice. If this restores the inverter to normal operation then the inverter should be serviced when convenient to clean an internal board connection.

Instrumentation

1. Gauge Accuracy.

The accuracy of most analog gauges is limited, but if they are significantly misreading - especially when the dash gauge illumination is at full brightness - then you may have some undesirable resistance at the ground connections behind the dash. The easiest fix is to run an additional 12 AWG ground wire from the chassis framework beneath the dash to one of the daisychained ground terminals on the rear of the gauges. Does your coach have the digital gauge package or a digital dash where some of the gauges are not working? This dash instrumentation receives its information from two different sources via two separate twisted-pair 'network' cables. No readings on the tachometer, odometer, oil pressure and boost pressure gauges would indicate a communications failure with the ECM or Engine Computer Module. No readings on the remaining gauges such as speed, fuel level, and brake circuit pressure would indicate a communication problem with the 'DCU' or Data Collection Unit which is located in the steering compartment. In both cases, check the electrical connectors in the steering compartment for loose or corroded connections.

2. Ignition Solenoid.

Should your coach develop intermittent problems where nothing happens when you turn on the ignition switch, the most likely culprit is the ignition solenoid. This is located behind the access panel in front of the passenger seat on earlier Allures and Intrigues, and on the Front Run Board in the steering compartment on earlier Magnas and Affinities. Tapping on the relay with the ignition turned on will usually get you home, but be aware that you may have to tap it a second time when the ignition is turned off for it to disengage.

Domestic Electrical Systems

1. Alarm Systems.

Problems with alarm systems are not uncommon as they age, but how does one determine whether it is the alarm that has malfunctioned, or the much abused key fob? The trick here is to follow the manufacturer's instructions to set the alarm system into transmitter programming mode. If you hear the correct squeaks, squawks and chirps as described in the instructions, it is safe to assume that the alarm system is operational but your key fob transmitters are not. If the alarm system groans or gargles unexpectedly and it has good voltage at its power connection, then it should be replaced. It is usually more cost effective to replace an old alarm system with a new one after about thirty minutes of troubleshooting as opposed to spending three or four hours of diagnostic time trying to coax life into one that has long expired.

2. Poor Antenna Reception.

If your TV picture is somewhat 'snowy' while others near you have great reception, then it is time to check for loose coaxial cable connections behind the TV itself, and also on the rear of the TV-Boost, and A/V switcher control. If this does not improve the reception, then the next item to check is the coaxial cable connections to the antenna itself. You might also consider cutting the cable back a little to install fresh connectors in place of those that may have corroded.

3. Entry Step.

Do your entry steps go out when you close the door, go in when you open it, or exhibit other erratic behavior? If the steps are receiving good voltage, and the ground is clean and secure, then the first item to check is the door switch. If the steps seem to work properly as you cycle this switch in and out with your finger, then it probably needs to be adjusted. If not, then the switch should be tested with an ohm-meter for good continuity and replaced if necessary. In some cases, the entry step's 'brain' may be a little confused. But, I have some good news! Brain transplants are readily available and are easy to replace. If you replace an older 'white brain' with the newer 'black brain', you will also need to add a relay to change the logic of the entry door switch or, better still, replace the entry door switch also. The latter is generally not an easy task so be prepared for battle!

This is not by any means a complete collection of electrical gremlins, but hopefully the solutions presented here will shed some light on a mystery or two that may have plagued you for some time.

Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach Part 2 of 3

Here is part 2 of a 3-part article authored by one Brian Keys--great guy, smart guy, and a funny guy...anyway here is part two of a wonderful technical article on taking care of your Country Coach.

Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach - Part 2 of 3 
 by Brian Keys, Country Coach Electrical Engineer

In Part 1 of this article which was published in the spring issue of Destinations, we began a discussion on the maintenance requirements of aging coaches with information on filters and sealants. In this article, we shall continue the discussion with a look at the remaining maintenance requirements of your coach's chassis. Before we begin however, let's take a few moments to discuss some safety concerns that you should always be aware of should you prefer to tinker on your own coach.

SAFETY FIRST

- Always ensure that your engine cannot be cranked either by you or, more importantly, another party when you are working in the engine compartment area.

- Don't wear any loose clothing when working around moving components, such as the engine, while it is running.

- Never crawl beneath the coach unless it has first been raised off the ground using ramps or other approved lifting apparatus, and is supported on jack stands where applicable. The air system in your coach can lower at any time, and there are easier and less painful ways to achieve the slender look!

- Always wear safety glasses when working beneath the coach. This list of 'dos and don'ts' is not conclusive of course since there are approximately a bazillion ways to pinch your fingers or get dirt in your eyes. The purpose of this article is to raise awareness of the various maintenance requirements for your coach, and to equip you with some knowledge that you can take along to your next service appointment to ensure nothing is overlooked. With that, let's dispense with the salad and get to the meat and potatoes!

DRIVE-TRAIN

What on earth is the drive-train you say? Simply put, the drive-train is an all inclusive term for the mechanical components that take the power from your engine/transmission, and apply it to the road to get you moving, including the rear axle, and its umbilical cord to the transmission - the driveline (or propeller shaft for the Europeans out there). Another term you may be familiar with is 'power-train'. This is identical to drive-train, only the term also accommodates the engine and transmission.

1. Axles.

Your coach has at least two, and those with a Tag axle have three. The first item we need to discuss here is wheel bearings and their adjustment. A mildly loose wheel bearing adjustment is probably not the end of the world, but you can expect a higher bearing wear rate and other problems that may arise from lateral movement of the hub including ABS sensors that repeatedly go out of adjustment causing a warning light on the dash, erratic speedometer reading on coaches built with a Gillig chassis, and perhaps a groaning sound as you apply the brakes. Wheel bearings that are very loose will be fairly obvious due to oil contamination of the brake linings from leaking rear hub seals. But what about wheel bearings that are a little on the tight side? This is much less common, fortunately, since tight wheel bearings are at risk of overheating and possible seizure. Early warning signs are oil contamination of the brake linings caused by overheated rear oil seals and elevated wheel temperatures after you have traveled a significant distance. In the latter case, it is generally a good idea to monitor your wheel temperatures after any hubs have been removed from your coach for axle or brake servicing etc. This is best done after having traveled a distance of fifty miles or more on level terrain. Decelerate using the Jake or exhaust brake as much as possible before gently applying the brakes to minimize the heating effect that your brakes will add to the wheels. Then, with the coach stopped, immediately check the temperature of all the wheels. An Infra-Red temperature gun is ideal for this, but you should be able to detect any significant differences in wheel temperatures by simply placing your hand on the wheel. Wheel temperatures should be similar on both sides of the same axle but be careful, that wheel may be quite hot! The correct procedures for wheel bearing adjustment for coaches with Meritor or Dana axles can be found on the appropriate company website. For Meritor, the web address is www.arvinmeritor.com and for Dana axles this information is located at www.roadranger.com  

Still on the subject of axles, let's take some time to discuss seals; not the sea animal variety, but the oil seals that are responsible for keeping your wheel bearings lubricated, and your brakes dry. Each axle hub has two seals, an outer seal on the hub cover or axle shaft, and an inner seal that runs on the spindle.

A leaking outer seal should be immediately obvious by unsightly oil streaking on your nice shiny wheels, and is not an immediate cause for concern provided you frequently check your hub oil levels until you can have the problem addressed. Leaking outer seals are frequently caused by overfilling of the oil hub, or a plugged vent hole in the rubber plug that resides in the center of your hub cover sight glass. Leaking inner seals, on the other hand, should be addressed immediately due to the risk of oil contamination on the brake linings. As mentioned above, inner seals generally fail due to out of adjustment wheel bearings, and this seal should always be replaced with a new one when your hub is removed.

Your chassis manual provides valuable information on lubrication types and service intervals, and further information can be found at the web addresses below including newer synthetic lubricants that may be available as a replacement for your existing oil.

 

2. Driveline.

The driveline is the shaft that connects your transmission and drive axle. This shaft is subjected to extreme torsion forces when you stomp your foot on the gas pedal, climb steep grades, or worse still, encounter wheel spin followed by good traction which may occur on roads with icy patches, or when traversing from soft sand or gravel onto pavement. Country Coach fortunately uses very strong drivelines on the DynoMax chassis so problems such as twisted or broken drivelines are unheard of. That said, we still have to respect the critical role that this component plays in ‘motorvating' your coach. Your driveline must be well maintained and frequently inspected. When looking over your driveline, take a close look at the universal joints on each end, watching out for cracked ‘cross pieces' (the piece that looks like a ‘+' with a bearing on each end), and failed bearings. Use a pry-bar to exert force between the cross piece and the ‘U' shaped yokes it is mounted in to determine if there is any free play that may indicate ‘trunnion' bearings in need of replacement. Also check the bolts that secure the trunnion bearings into the yoke to ensure they are tight. There are many different names for this driveline joint such as ‘universal joint', or ‘spicer joint', but the terminology above is widely accepted and recognized. For lubrication, the cross pieces on each end of the shaft are provided with a grease nipple, and fresh grease should be pumped in until it visibly purges from all four bearings on each cross piece. Once again, please refer to your chassis service manual for specific service intervals.

One maintenance item that is often overlooked when it comes to drivelines is the slip-joint. This is where the two pieces of your driveline come together, and its purpose is to allow the driveline to lengthen or shorten as necessary to accommodate suspension travel. The slip joint should never bind and must therefore also be lubricated when greasing the universal joints on either end of the driveline. The slip joint should be lubricated at its shortest travel which means the coach should generally be at ride height. Pump six to eight shots of grease into the grease nipple on the side of the slip joint (approx 1oz or 28grams). If you find that the grease is purging from a small weep hole at the end of the driveline, just plug this hole with your finger and continue pumping the required amount of grease into the slip joint. Any grease that purges from the aforementioned weep hole, or from the slip joint dust seal should be wiped off before it finds its way onto your driveway or shop floor. Those of you who neglected to ensure that the driveline was at its shortest travel for this operation will be rewarded with some blobs of grease on the ground as your coach returns to ride height.

While in the area of the driveline, take a look at the oil seals where the driveline meets the transmission and drive axle differential housing. Some light oil staining in this area is not uncommon and is not a cause for concern, but significant oil leaks that are evident by a thick coating of wet oil should be rectified as soon as possible.

Engine/Transmission

Now that we have covered the components that use power and torque to get your coach moving, lets backtrack a little to where it all began… the engine and transmission. In the first of this series of articles, we discussed the filters for both the engine and transmission, and we shall avoid the subject of lubricant types and service intervals because we all have our personal preferences on the former, and the latter. Recommended service information is readily available in your chassis manual. So what is left to discuss? Well, lots actually. Lets begin…

1. Belts.

We are all hopefully up to speed on the importance of regular checks on your engines belts including tension, evidence of wear/cracking, frayed edges, and evidence of perforations on multi-rib belts from driving perhaps a little too fast on loose gravel surfaces. But what about the belt pulleys? With the engine running at idle, do your V-belts run smoothly, or are they oscillating between the pulleys like a heavily struck guitar string? If the latter is true, then try replacing the belt first, ensuring the correct tension is attained. If the problem still exists, then one or more of the belt pulleys on your engine is likely in need of replacement due to uneven wear. This guilty culprit is usually fairly obvious upon close inspection with the belt removed. Multi-rib belts are less prone to oscillation and uneven pulley wear, but keep an eye on the automatic belt tensioner as the engine is running. Is it bouncing frantically on the belt, or is it relatively stationary as the tensioner pulley spins? If the former is true, then with the engine stopped and disabled, release the tension from the automatic tensioner and remove the multi-rib belt. Check the pulley on the tensioner and all idler pulleys for worn bearings or eccentricity and replace as necessary. Belts that have frayed edges may indicate an alignment problem with the pulleys.

2. Throttle System.

Just what exactly is the throttle system you might ask? Those of you with an electronically controlled engine may be left wondering because your coach doesn't really have one, with the possible exception of the throttle pedal itself. However, those coaches that pre-date the insurgence of electronic controls will require some means of linking the throttle pedal at the front of the coach to the fuel injector pump on the engine. This is done by air on earlier models, and an ETS (Electronic Throttle System) on later models. To discern which type of control was used on your coach, simply explore the area between the carpet and the underside of your throttle pedal. If you see a bulky pneumatic valve in this area with air lines sneaking beneath the carpet, then you have the earlier air throttle. If, however, you see a roller connected to an electrical sensor with its associated wiring, then you will have the later ETS system assuming your engine is not electronically controlled by way of an engine computer. If you have a CAT C9, C10, C12, C13, C15, or Cummins ISC/ISL then the remainder of this section does not apply to you. Does your engine respond immediately and smoothly as you press your foot on the throttle pedal, or does it ignore your request for more power at first before delivering it in an embarrassing surge as you push the throttle pedal down a little further? This problem may be a result of a worn air actuator on the engine, or an indication of a throttle linkage that is in desperate need of lubrication. The air actuator is a small pneumatic device that bolts onto your engine and connects to the fuel pump via a linkage of some sort. A worn actuator will allow air to blow by the seal as you initially press your foot on the throttle, before taking hold with a vengeance as more throttle is applied. A replacement actuator is the preferred solution as opposed to a rebuild kit if one is indeed available. A sticking throttle linkage on the other hand is easily rectified with a liberal application of a light lubricant such as WD40. Heavy lubricants are to be avoided as they will cause dirt to adhere to the linkage. Pay particular attention to the throttle shaft as it enters the fuel pump.

How about a different scenario? As you press your foot on the throttle pedal, does your engine build power in a normal fashion before suddenly releasing back to an idle? This is obviously not an ideal situation, particularly when you are trying to merge with traffic on an on-ramp. This is a symptom of a slipping clutch on the later ETS system and, as before, the culprit is most likely a binding throttle linkage caused by insufficient lubrication. No conversation on the earlier throttle systems is complete without a brief discussion on springs, specifically the throttle return springs that are responsible for returning your engine to an idle once you have lifted your foot of the gas pedal. These springs endure frequent extend/contract cycling as you vary the position of the throttle pedal during driving, and are therefore prone to eventually break. If you haven't done so already, I strongly advise you to replace them (generally two side by side) at your earliest convenience, and every year thereafter regardless of the mileage. These springs are easily located at the throttle linkage on your engine, and should be replaced in pairs. Take care that you use the correct spring however, as an increased pull tension may result in symptoms similar to a sticking throttle linkage.

3. Exhaust Brake.

The Exhaust Brake has been covered several times in recent Destinations articles, but let me go through the drill once again here to ensure this article is complete. If you have been tinkering on your coach as you make your way through this article, then you probably don't want to add burns to your growing collection of nicks, cuts, and bruises. For that reason, please ensure that the engine - in particular the turbo and exhaust brake assembly - has cooled sufficiently before you begin working on it.

Once you have gained access to the exhaust brake, look for any signs of soot on either side of the exhaust brake as it mounts to the turbo and exhaust system. If present, this can generally be rectified by applying more tension to the band clamps as you gently tap them around their outer circumference with a hammer. In some cases, a new band clamp may be required. With the auxiliary air system pressurized, the next step is to ensure your hands are clear of the exhaust brake, and that the exhaust brake switch is in the ‘on' position. Watch the exhaust brake closely while your accomplice cycles the ignition switch off and on without cranking the engine.

Does it move freely through its complete stroke and release rapidly every time? If yes, then apply some high temperature silicone based lubricant to all moving parts and call it good. This specialized lubricant can be purchased from us as part# 500070, or from PACBRAKE as part# 18037. PACBRAKE can be contacted at 800-663-0096 or info@pacbrake.com If you find that the exhaust brake binds in both directions then try the aforementioned lubricant first. If this doesn't solve the problem, then disconnect the pneumatic cylinder from the exhaust brake butterfly flapper and move the flapper itself. If the flapper moves freely then your pneumatic cylinder likely needs to be replaced.

If the cylinder extends rapidly, but is slow to return, first check the small valve at the base of the cylinder for a mud dauber or other insect nest that may have blocked the exhaust port. Next, try to extend the cylinder by hand. If it extends easily, then the cylinder's internal return spring is either weak or broken, which will necessitate a replacement of the complete cylinder.

Another scenario you might witness as the ignition cycles is a pronounced air leak and an immobile exhaust brake. This is usually caused by a failed, or partially missing ‘rapid exhaust valve'. This valve, which is located at the base of the pneumatic cylinder, only exists on older exhaust brake systems, such as those used on the Gillig chassis. Newer exhaust brake systems use a two way pneumatic valve located beneath the bed deck to control the exhaust brake cylinder. This valve can easily be retrofitted into earlier coaches and eliminates the need for an often difficult to find rapid exhaust valve. Did I mention that you should keep your hands clear of the exhaust brake at all times when the ignition is turned on or off? Your fingers will appreciate this warning…

4. Engine Kill Circuit.

The engine kill circuit is technically part of your coach's electrical system and should therefore be relegated to the third and final article of this series that will publish in the next issue of Destinations. I want to raise the topic briefly in this article, however, for those who have difficulty starting their coach after having spent some time tinkering in the engine bay area. You see, lurking somewhat menacingly behind, or perhaps adjacent to the emergency stop switch (or engine kill switch) located in the upper right corner of your engine compartment is a small black relay of the single pole, double throw variety (SPDT). This relay is generally well behaved until your coach has quite a few miles or years beneath its belt, at which time it can become temperamental. All is well until you perhaps nudge it with your elbow, close the bed deck a little too hard, or shoot it with a stubborn throttle return spring and now suddenly, you find your coach refuses to start… Well that's not quite true actually. Your coach may start just fine, and continue to run as long as you crank the engine over, but once you let go of the key it immediately dies! Current models have not used this relay for several years now, so if you have one, it is probably time to replace yours. It may never become a problem. However, the relay is inexpensive and it does play a critical role in keeping your engine running, or more importantly, stopping quickly when you don't want it to run. The relay is readily available in various brands from most automotive stores, and is commonly sold as part of an installation kit for fog lamps or similar. It must have five pins (most do), and the center pin must be marked ‘87a', not ‘87' which would indicate an incorrect single pole, single throw (SPST) relay.

Suspension

To bring this article to a close, let's move our attention to the components that connect our driveline to the coach, and keep our teeth from falling out on bumpy highways; otherwise known as the suspension. As with the driveline, your suspension will appreciate a little grease now and then to keep it from binding and to prevent excessive wear and tear. Just about any suspension component that

moves will have a grease nipple associated with it, and specific information on grease type, service schedule and grease nipple locations can again be found in your chassis manual. When greasing rod ends with a rubber boot, stop injecting grease when the boot begins to swell to avoid damage to the boot itself. In other areas such as the ‘king pin', and suspension bushings, apply grease until it begins to purge somewhere in close vicinity to the grease nipple, and wipe off the excess grease before it finds its way onto your driveway, or brakes. Replace any grease nipples that refuse to accept grease.

If you feel your suspension is perhaps a little on the noisy side, particularly when entering driveways or driving on rough roads, then a re-torque may be in order. This simply involves tightening all the suspension bolts, bits and bobs back to factory specifications, and your chassis manual should provide the necessary service schedule for your specific coach.

Alignment is important for good handling and even tire wear and should be checked periodically, especially after making significant changes in how you load your coach, or if your suspension has been worked on. Uneven tire wear is an immediate justification for having your alignment checked by a qualified alignment technician.

Last but not least are the lug nuts themselves. These should be checked periodically to ensure they are tight. On the rear duals, this will require loosening the outer lug nuts one at a time to check that the inner nut is secure before retightening the outer nut and moving on to the next one. Lug nuts generally don't come loose if they have been tightened correctly the first time, and it is here that the following advice is valuable for both your coach and tow vehicle…use a torque wrench. How many times have you seen lug nuts tightened without a torque wrench? More often than not probably, but this practice applies uneven pressure to the brake drum or disc that is sandwiched between your wheel, and the hub. You probably won't notice this as much on the coach as you will on the tow car where a pulsing brake pedal is a sure sign of a warped disc, but the advice still holds true in both cases.

In the final article of this series to be included in the Autumn 2004 issue, we will take a look at some electrical gremlins that may arise and how to avoid them. Until then, drive safe wherever your journey takes you and have fun along the way.

...TO BE CONTINUED....