Maintenance Tips for the Mature Motorcoach Part 3

.......and now the conclusion of one of my favorite articles authored by Country Coach electrical engineer (and former service manager) Brian Keys

ELECTRICAL - Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach - Part 3 of 3 by Brian Keys,  electrical engineer at former Country Coach, LLC motorcoach manufacturer

Well folks, this is the last in a series of maintenance articles for the older Country Coach that began in the spring issue with a look at filter maintenance, and continued in the summer issue with a close look at the DynoMax chassis. This article will focus on the electrical gremlins that might take residence in your coach as the years pass by, and the steps you should take to eradicate them.

Before we continue, let us discuss a few notes of caution that you should be aware of when working on both low and high voltage electrical systems.  They are as follows:

* Low voltage electricity such as 12-volt or 24-volt does not present a risk of electrical shock. Battery and starter cables, however, carry a lot of current which can cause severe burns should a short circuit occur. Always remove the negative battery cable first and never allow the tool you are using to remove the positive cable to contact the chassis.

* Batteries give off explosive gasses. You should not work in close proximity to the batteries if they are gassing for any reason. If it does become necessary, you can cover the top of the battery completely with a water-soaked towel to absorb the gasses being produced.

* High voltage such as 120-volts or 240-volts can kill. Make absolutely sure that the circuit is not hot before you work on it. Don't assume that the circuit is dead because you have turned the switch off; use a test meter or similar to verify that the circuit is not powered.

* Think twice before working on 240-volt systems such as the transfer switch or shore cord. A simple wiring error in this system can result in an 'open neutral' that will typically destroy much of the high voltage electrical quipment in your coach such as the inverter, microwave, entertainment systems, etcetera. For this reason, and to avoid shock hazard, never use a “lollipop stick” or similar device to hold down the contacts of a failed transfer switch. It is a popular band-aid solution, but one that carries a lot of risk to both you and your coach.

With that out of the way, let's continue!

High Voltage Systems!

1. Transfer Switch.

Does your transfer switch shake, rattle and roll? Hopefully not, but it might develop a hum or chatter that would indicate dust or other contamination is preventing the relays from closing fully. With the switch un-powered, try blowing out any dust with high pressure compressed air. If you have an older transfer switch that has a small diode and capacitor between the relays, the ideal solution is to replace the switch. Those of you who are familiar with soldering can source a new diode and capacitor from Radio Shack, but the relays will often have reached their service life in this transfer switch and will (according to Murphy's Law) fail at the most inconvenient time. Does your coach mysteriously drop just one 'leg' of power after about thirty minutes of running on generator power? Does this leg of power cycle off and on? If this is true, then the likely culprit is a broken coil winding in one of the transfer switch relays. The two ends of the break will make contact when the coil is cold, but will separate again as the coil heats up due to thermal expansion. This is a common symptom with old transfer switches and for this reason, I again recommend that an old transfer switch should be replaced, not repaired.

2. Voltage Monitor or 'GFI' Circuit Board.

Do you regularly hear computer voices warning you that your shore cord polarity is reversed? If so, then you are probably very familiar with the location of the mute switch for the voice monitor system. To cure the actual problem will require replacement of the GFI Circuit Board. This board will probably have been damaged by a voltage spike on shore power and is typically located in the overhead dash above the passenger seat, or in the 'AC Feeder Panel' above the transfer switch.

Charging System

1. Battery Isolator.

This item is located in the engine compartment and was used on coaches with a Gillig chassis to allow the alternator to charge both chassis and domestic batteries while keeping them electrically isolated from each other. If you have a Gillig coach and your alternator is only charging one set of batteries, then the battery isolator has most likely failed. Failed isolators will usually have some cracking around one or more of the battery cable studs. The battery isolator is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side.

2. Charge/Boost Relay.

DynoMax coaches are equipped with a charge/boost relay in place of the aforementioned battery isolator. This relay connects the chassis and domestic batteries together when the engine is running so they both receive a charge. It also connects the two battery banks together when the 'battery boost' switch is operated to start your engine when the chassis batteries are low. If the alternator is only charging the chassis batteries and not the domestic batteries, then this component has likely failed and needs to be replaced.

3. Echo Charger.

This neat device provides a trickle charge to your chassis batteries from the domestic batteries when the latter is at 13-volts or higher, and it serves to keep your chassis battery charged when your coach is connected to shore power. If you experience problems keeping your chassis batteries charged then check the in-line fuses on the echo charger's wiring harness. These fuses typically fail when the chassis battery positive cable comes into contact with the frame during chassis battery replacement.

4. Battery Cables.

If you have a persistent charging problem that has so far defied all attempts at resolution, then take a close look at the battery cables. In particular, check to ensure the connections are clean and tight at the batteries, starter motor, alternator, and engine-to-frame ground cable.

5. Inverter Charging

Did your Heart Freedom 25, or Freedom 20 stop charging the domestic batteries for no apparent reason? If installed, does your Link 2000 show that the domestic batteries are receiving a bulk charge when they are in fact discharging? If so, then the first thing to check is the 300-amp, or 250-amp fuse on the inverter's positive battery cable. A voltage check across this fuse that measures anything other than 0-volts would indicate that this fuse has failed. If the fuse checks out good, then try hitting the upper right corner of the inverter's front panel with a closed fist (not a hammer!) once or twice. If this restores the inverter to normal operation then the inverter should be serviced when convenient to clean an internal board connection.

Instrumentation

1. Gauge Accuracy.

The accuracy of most analog gauges is limited, but if they are significantly misreading - especially when the dash gauge illumination is at full brightness - then you may have some undesirable resistance at the ground connections behind the dash. The easiest fix is to run an additional 12 AWG ground wire from the chassis framework beneath the dash to one of the daisychained ground terminals on the rear of the gauges. Does your coach have the digital gauge package or a digital dash where some of the gauges are not working? This dash instrumentation receives its information from two different sources via two separate twisted-pair 'network' cables. No readings on the tachometer, odometer, oil pressure and boost pressure gauges would indicate a communications failure with the ECM or Engine Computer Module. No readings on the remaining gauges such as speed, fuel level, and brake circuit pressure would indicate a communication problem with the 'DCU' or Data Collection Unit which is located in the steering compartment. In both cases, check the electrical connectors in the steering compartment for loose or corroded connections.

2. Ignition Solenoid.

Should your coach develop intermittent problems where nothing happens when you turn on the ignition switch, the most likely culprit is the ignition solenoid. This is located behind the access panel in front of the passenger seat on earlier Allures and Intrigues, and on the Front Run Board in the steering compartment on earlier Magnas and Affinities. Tapping on the relay with the ignition turned on will usually get you home, but be aware that you may have to tap it a second time when the ignition is turned off for it to disengage.

Domestic Electrical Systems

1. Alarm Systems.

Problems with alarm systems are not uncommon as they age, but how does one determine whether it is the alarm that has malfunctioned, or the much abused key fob? The trick here is to follow the manufacturer's instructions to set the alarm system into transmitter programming mode. If you hear the correct squeaks, squawks and chirps as described in the instructions, it is safe to assume that the alarm system is operational but your key fob transmitters are not. If the alarm system groans or gargles unexpectedly and it has good voltage at its power connection, then it should be replaced. It is usually more cost effective to replace an old alarm system with a new one after about thirty minutes of troubleshooting as opposed to spending three or four hours of diagnostic time trying to coax life into one that has long expired.

2. Poor Antenna Reception.

If your TV picture is somewhat 'snowy' while others near you have great reception, then it is time to check for loose coaxial cable connections behind the TV itself, and also on the rear of the TV-Boost, and A/V switcher control. If this does not improve the reception, then the next item to check is the coaxial cable connections to the antenna itself. You might also consider cutting the cable back a little to install fresh connectors in place of those that may have corroded.

3. Entry Step.

Do your entry steps go out when you close the door, go in when you open it, or exhibit other erratic behavior? If the steps are receiving good voltage, and the ground is clean and secure, then the first item to check is the door switch. If the steps seem to work properly as you cycle this switch in and out with your finger, then it probably needs to be adjusted. If not, then the switch should be tested with an ohm-meter for good continuity and replaced if necessary. In some cases, the entry step's 'brain' may be a little confused. But, I have some good news! Brain transplants are readily available and are easy to replace. If you replace an older 'white brain' with the newer 'black brain', you will also need to add a relay to change the logic of the entry door switch or, better still, replace the entry door switch also. The latter is generally not an easy task so be prepared for battle!

This is not by any means a complete collection of electrical gremlins, but hopefully the solutions presented here will shed some light on a mystery or two that may have plagued you for some time.

Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach Part 2 of 3

Here is part 2 of a 3-part article authored by one Brian Keys--great guy, smart guy, and a funny guy...anyway here is part two of a wonderful technical article on taking care of your Country Coach.

Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach - Part 2 of 3 
 by Brian Keys, Country Coach Electrical Engineer

In Part 1 of this article which was published in the spring issue of Destinations, we began a discussion on the maintenance requirements of aging coaches with information on filters and sealants. In this article, we shall continue the discussion with a look at the remaining maintenance requirements of your coach's chassis. Before we begin however, let's take a few moments to discuss some safety concerns that you should always be aware of should you prefer to tinker on your own coach.

SAFETY FIRST

- Always ensure that your engine cannot be cranked either by you or, more importantly, another party when you are working in the engine compartment area.

- Don't wear any loose clothing when working around moving components, such as the engine, while it is running.

- Never crawl beneath the coach unless it has first been raised off the ground using ramps or other approved lifting apparatus, and is supported on jack stands where applicable. The air system in your coach can lower at any time, and there are easier and less painful ways to achieve the slender look!

- Always wear safety glasses when working beneath the coach. This list of 'dos and don'ts' is not conclusive of course since there are approximately a bazillion ways to pinch your fingers or get dirt in your eyes. The purpose of this article is to raise awareness of the various maintenance requirements for your coach, and to equip you with some knowledge that you can take along to your next service appointment to ensure nothing is overlooked. With that, let's dispense with the salad and get to the meat and potatoes!

DRIVE-TRAIN

What on earth is the drive-train you say? Simply put, the drive-train is an all inclusive term for the mechanical components that take the power from your engine/transmission, and apply it to the road to get you moving, including the rear axle, and its umbilical cord to the transmission - the driveline (or propeller shaft for the Europeans out there). Another term you may be familiar with is 'power-train'. This is identical to drive-train, only the term also accommodates the engine and transmission.

1. Axles.

Your coach has at least two, and those with a Tag axle have three. The first item we need to discuss here is wheel bearings and their adjustment. A mildly loose wheel bearing adjustment is probably not the end of the world, but you can expect a higher bearing wear rate and other problems that may arise from lateral movement of the hub including ABS sensors that repeatedly go out of adjustment causing a warning light on the dash, erratic speedometer reading on coaches built with a Gillig chassis, and perhaps a groaning sound as you apply the brakes. Wheel bearings that are very loose will be fairly obvious due to oil contamination of the brake linings from leaking rear hub seals. But what about wheel bearings that are a little on the tight side? This is much less common, fortunately, since tight wheel bearings are at risk of overheating and possible seizure. Early warning signs are oil contamination of the brake linings caused by overheated rear oil seals and elevated wheel temperatures after you have traveled a significant distance. In the latter case, it is generally a good idea to monitor your wheel temperatures after any hubs have been removed from your coach for axle or brake servicing etc. This is best done after having traveled a distance of fifty miles or more on level terrain. Decelerate using the Jake or exhaust brake as much as possible before gently applying the brakes to minimize the heating effect that your brakes will add to the wheels. Then, with the coach stopped, immediately check the temperature of all the wheels. An Infra-Red temperature gun is ideal for this, but you should be able to detect any significant differences in wheel temperatures by simply placing your hand on the wheel. Wheel temperatures should be similar on both sides of the same axle but be careful, that wheel may be quite hot! The correct procedures for wheel bearing adjustment for coaches with Meritor or Dana axles can be found on the appropriate company website. For Meritor, the web address is www.arvinmeritor.com and for Dana axles this information is located at www.roadranger.com  

Still on the subject of axles, let's take some time to discuss seals; not the sea animal variety, but the oil seals that are responsible for keeping your wheel bearings lubricated, and your brakes dry. Each axle hub has two seals, an outer seal on the hub cover or axle shaft, and an inner seal that runs on the spindle.

A leaking outer seal should be immediately obvious by unsightly oil streaking on your nice shiny wheels, and is not an immediate cause for concern provided you frequently check your hub oil levels until you can have the problem addressed. Leaking outer seals are frequently caused by overfilling of the oil hub, or a plugged vent hole in the rubber plug that resides in the center of your hub cover sight glass. Leaking inner seals, on the other hand, should be addressed immediately due to the risk of oil contamination on the brake linings. As mentioned above, inner seals generally fail due to out of adjustment wheel bearings, and this seal should always be replaced with a new one when your hub is removed.

Your chassis manual provides valuable information on lubrication types and service intervals, and further information can be found at the web addresses below including newer synthetic lubricants that may be available as a replacement for your existing oil.

 

2. Driveline.

The driveline is the shaft that connects your transmission and drive axle. This shaft is subjected to extreme torsion forces when you stomp your foot on the gas pedal, climb steep grades, or worse still, encounter wheel spin followed by good traction which may occur on roads with icy patches, or when traversing from soft sand or gravel onto pavement. Country Coach fortunately uses very strong drivelines on the DynoMax chassis so problems such as twisted or broken drivelines are unheard of. That said, we still have to respect the critical role that this component plays in ‘motorvating' your coach. Your driveline must be well maintained and frequently inspected. When looking over your driveline, take a close look at the universal joints on each end, watching out for cracked ‘cross pieces' (the piece that looks like a ‘+' with a bearing on each end), and failed bearings. Use a pry-bar to exert force between the cross piece and the ‘U' shaped yokes it is mounted in to determine if there is any free play that may indicate ‘trunnion' bearings in need of replacement. Also check the bolts that secure the trunnion bearings into the yoke to ensure they are tight. There are many different names for this driveline joint such as ‘universal joint', or ‘spicer joint', but the terminology above is widely accepted and recognized. For lubrication, the cross pieces on each end of the shaft are provided with a grease nipple, and fresh grease should be pumped in until it visibly purges from all four bearings on each cross piece. Once again, please refer to your chassis service manual for specific service intervals.

One maintenance item that is often overlooked when it comes to drivelines is the slip-joint. This is where the two pieces of your driveline come together, and its purpose is to allow the driveline to lengthen or shorten as necessary to accommodate suspension travel. The slip joint should never bind and must therefore also be lubricated when greasing the universal joints on either end of the driveline. The slip joint should be lubricated at its shortest travel which means the coach should generally be at ride height. Pump six to eight shots of grease into the grease nipple on the side of the slip joint (approx 1oz or 28grams). If you find that the grease is purging from a small weep hole at the end of the driveline, just plug this hole with your finger and continue pumping the required amount of grease into the slip joint. Any grease that purges from the aforementioned weep hole, or from the slip joint dust seal should be wiped off before it finds its way onto your driveway or shop floor. Those of you who neglected to ensure that the driveline was at its shortest travel for this operation will be rewarded with some blobs of grease on the ground as your coach returns to ride height.

While in the area of the driveline, take a look at the oil seals where the driveline meets the transmission and drive axle differential housing. Some light oil staining in this area is not uncommon and is not a cause for concern, but significant oil leaks that are evident by a thick coating of wet oil should be rectified as soon as possible.

Engine/Transmission

Now that we have covered the components that use power and torque to get your coach moving, lets backtrack a little to where it all began… the engine and transmission. In the first of this series of articles, we discussed the filters for both the engine and transmission, and we shall avoid the subject of lubricant types and service intervals because we all have our personal preferences on the former, and the latter. Recommended service information is readily available in your chassis manual. So what is left to discuss? Well, lots actually. Lets begin…

1. Belts.

We are all hopefully up to speed on the importance of regular checks on your engines belts including tension, evidence of wear/cracking, frayed edges, and evidence of perforations on multi-rib belts from driving perhaps a little too fast on loose gravel surfaces. But what about the belt pulleys? With the engine running at idle, do your V-belts run smoothly, or are they oscillating between the pulleys like a heavily struck guitar string? If the latter is true, then try replacing the belt first, ensuring the correct tension is attained. If the problem still exists, then one or more of the belt pulleys on your engine is likely in need of replacement due to uneven wear. This guilty culprit is usually fairly obvious upon close inspection with the belt removed. Multi-rib belts are less prone to oscillation and uneven pulley wear, but keep an eye on the automatic belt tensioner as the engine is running. Is it bouncing frantically on the belt, or is it relatively stationary as the tensioner pulley spins? If the former is true, then with the engine stopped and disabled, release the tension from the automatic tensioner and remove the multi-rib belt. Check the pulley on the tensioner and all idler pulleys for worn bearings or eccentricity and replace as necessary. Belts that have frayed edges may indicate an alignment problem with the pulleys.

2. Throttle System.

Just what exactly is the throttle system you might ask? Those of you with an electronically controlled engine may be left wondering because your coach doesn't really have one, with the possible exception of the throttle pedal itself. However, those coaches that pre-date the insurgence of electronic controls will require some means of linking the throttle pedal at the front of the coach to the fuel injector pump on the engine. This is done by air on earlier models, and an ETS (Electronic Throttle System) on later models. To discern which type of control was used on your coach, simply explore the area between the carpet and the underside of your throttle pedal. If you see a bulky pneumatic valve in this area with air lines sneaking beneath the carpet, then you have the earlier air throttle. If, however, you see a roller connected to an electrical sensor with its associated wiring, then you will have the later ETS system assuming your engine is not electronically controlled by way of an engine computer. If you have a CAT C9, C10, C12, C13, C15, or Cummins ISC/ISL then the remainder of this section does not apply to you. Does your engine respond immediately and smoothly as you press your foot on the throttle pedal, or does it ignore your request for more power at first before delivering it in an embarrassing surge as you push the throttle pedal down a little further? This problem may be a result of a worn air actuator on the engine, or an indication of a throttle linkage that is in desperate need of lubrication. The air actuator is a small pneumatic device that bolts onto your engine and connects to the fuel pump via a linkage of some sort. A worn actuator will allow air to blow by the seal as you initially press your foot on the throttle, before taking hold with a vengeance as more throttle is applied. A replacement actuator is the preferred solution as opposed to a rebuild kit if one is indeed available. A sticking throttle linkage on the other hand is easily rectified with a liberal application of a light lubricant such as WD40. Heavy lubricants are to be avoided as they will cause dirt to adhere to the linkage. Pay particular attention to the throttle shaft as it enters the fuel pump.

How about a different scenario? As you press your foot on the throttle pedal, does your engine build power in a normal fashion before suddenly releasing back to an idle? This is obviously not an ideal situation, particularly when you are trying to merge with traffic on an on-ramp. This is a symptom of a slipping clutch on the later ETS system and, as before, the culprit is most likely a binding throttle linkage caused by insufficient lubrication. No conversation on the earlier throttle systems is complete without a brief discussion on springs, specifically the throttle return springs that are responsible for returning your engine to an idle once you have lifted your foot of the gas pedal. These springs endure frequent extend/contract cycling as you vary the position of the throttle pedal during driving, and are therefore prone to eventually break. If you haven't done so already, I strongly advise you to replace them (generally two side by side) at your earliest convenience, and every year thereafter regardless of the mileage. These springs are easily located at the throttle linkage on your engine, and should be replaced in pairs. Take care that you use the correct spring however, as an increased pull tension may result in symptoms similar to a sticking throttle linkage.

3. Exhaust Brake.

The Exhaust Brake has been covered several times in recent Destinations articles, but let me go through the drill once again here to ensure this article is complete. If you have been tinkering on your coach as you make your way through this article, then you probably don't want to add burns to your growing collection of nicks, cuts, and bruises. For that reason, please ensure that the engine - in particular the turbo and exhaust brake assembly - has cooled sufficiently before you begin working on it.

Once you have gained access to the exhaust brake, look for any signs of soot on either side of the exhaust brake as it mounts to the turbo and exhaust system. If present, this can generally be rectified by applying more tension to the band clamps as you gently tap them around their outer circumference with a hammer. In some cases, a new band clamp may be required. With the auxiliary air system pressurized, the next step is to ensure your hands are clear of the exhaust brake, and that the exhaust brake switch is in the ‘on' position. Watch the exhaust brake closely while your accomplice cycles the ignition switch off and on without cranking the engine.

Does it move freely through its complete stroke and release rapidly every time? If yes, then apply some high temperature silicone based lubricant to all moving parts and call it good. This specialized lubricant can be purchased from us as part# 500070, or from PACBRAKE as part# 18037. PACBRAKE can be contacted at 800-663-0096 or info@pacbrake.com If you find that the exhaust brake binds in both directions then try the aforementioned lubricant first. If this doesn't solve the problem, then disconnect the pneumatic cylinder from the exhaust brake butterfly flapper and move the flapper itself. If the flapper moves freely then your pneumatic cylinder likely needs to be replaced.

If the cylinder extends rapidly, but is slow to return, first check the small valve at the base of the cylinder for a mud dauber or other insect nest that may have blocked the exhaust port. Next, try to extend the cylinder by hand. If it extends easily, then the cylinder's internal return spring is either weak or broken, which will necessitate a replacement of the complete cylinder.

Another scenario you might witness as the ignition cycles is a pronounced air leak and an immobile exhaust brake. This is usually caused by a failed, or partially missing ‘rapid exhaust valve'. This valve, which is located at the base of the pneumatic cylinder, only exists on older exhaust brake systems, such as those used on the Gillig chassis. Newer exhaust brake systems use a two way pneumatic valve located beneath the bed deck to control the exhaust brake cylinder. This valve can easily be retrofitted into earlier coaches and eliminates the need for an often difficult to find rapid exhaust valve. Did I mention that you should keep your hands clear of the exhaust brake at all times when the ignition is turned on or off? Your fingers will appreciate this warning…

4. Engine Kill Circuit.

The engine kill circuit is technically part of your coach's electrical system and should therefore be relegated to the third and final article of this series that will publish in the next issue of Destinations. I want to raise the topic briefly in this article, however, for those who have difficulty starting their coach after having spent some time tinkering in the engine bay area. You see, lurking somewhat menacingly behind, or perhaps adjacent to the emergency stop switch (or engine kill switch) located in the upper right corner of your engine compartment is a small black relay of the single pole, double throw variety (SPDT). This relay is generally well behaved until your coach has quite a few miles or years beneath its belt, at which time it can become temperamental. All is well until you perhaps nudge it with your elbow, close the bed deck a little too hard, or shoot it with a stubborn throttle return spring and now suddenly, you find your coach refuses to start… Well that's not quite true actually. Your coach may start just fine, and continue to run as long as you crank the engine over, but once you let go of the key it immediately dies! Current models have not used this relay for several years now, so if you have one, it is probably time to replace yours. It may never become a problem. However, the relay is inexpensive and it does play a critical role in keeping your engine running, or more importantly, stopping quickly when you don't want it to run. The relay is readily available in various brands from most automotive stores, and is commonly sold as part of an installation kit for fog lamps or similar. It must have five pins (most do), and the center pin must be marked ‘87a', not ‘87' which would indicate an incorrect single pole, single throw (SPST) relay.

Suspension

To bring this article to a close, let's move our attention to the components that connect our driveline to the coach, and keep our teeth from falling out on bumpy highways; otherwise known as the suspension. As with the driveline, your suspension will appreciate a little grease now and then to keep it from binding and to prevent excessive wear and tear. Just about any suspension component that

moves will have a grease nipple associated with it, and specific information on grease type, service schedule and grease nipple locations can again be found in your chassis manual. When greasing rod ends with a rubber boot, stop injecting grease when the boot begins to swell to avoid damage to the boot itself. In other areas such as the ‘king pin', and suspension bushings, apply grease until it begins to purge somewhere in close vicinity to the grease nipple, and wipe off the excess grease before it finds its way onto your driveway, or brakes. Replace any grease nipples that refuse to accept grease.

If you feel your suspension is perhaps a little on the noisy side, particularly when entering driveways or driving on rough roads, then a re-torque may be in order. This simply involves tightening all the suspension bolts, bits and bobs back to factory specifications, and your chassis manual should provide the necessary service schedule for your specific coach.

Alignment is important for good handling and even tire wear and should be checked periodically, especially after making significant changes in how you load your coach, or if your suspension has been worked on. Uneven tire wear is an immediate justification for having your alignment checked by a qualified alignment technician.

Last but not least are the lug nuts themselves. These should be checked periodically to ensure they are tight. On the rear duals, this will require loosening the outer lug nuts one at a time to check that the inner nut is secure before retightening the outer nut and moving on to the next one. Lug nuts generally don't come loose if they have been tightened correctly the first time, and it is here that the following advice is valuable for both your coach and tow vehicle…use a torque wrench. How many times have you seen lug nuts tightened without a torque wrench? More often than not probably, but this practice applies uneven pressure to the brake drum or disc that is sandwiched between your wheel, and the hub. You probably won't notice this as much on the coach as you will on the tow car where a pulsing brake pedal is a sure sign of a warped disc, but the advice still holds true in both cases.

In the final article of this series to be included in the Autumn 2004 issue, we will take a look at some electrical gremlins that may arise and how to avoid them. Until then, drive safe wherever your journey takes you and have fun along the way.

...TO BE CONTINUED....

Maintenance Tips for the Mature Country Coach Motorcoach

In the next few installments , I am sharing "my all-time favorite technical article" submission to CC Destinations magazine as received from the engineering and service gurus at the former Country Coach Inc.  This article was a 3 part work from the one and only Brian Keys. Brian worked as an Electrical Engineer and as a Service Manager during his tenure at CC. All Country Coachers who had the chance to speak with him about the inner workings of a Country Coach would agree the man was something of a wizard when it came to all things electrical. His knowledge pool was Deep!  *Country Coach Destinations, was printed from 1995 through 2009 and I was blessed to be a part of creating every single issue, until the company closed its doors and "my adopted 4th child," Destinations print magazine, ceased its production.

 

Maintenance Tips for the Mature CC Motorcoach - Part 1 of 3 by Brian Keys

Has your coach passed its initial flush of youth? Are you apprehensive of system failures and large repair bills as your coach enters its golden years? Many of you have read about, discussed or experienced some of the problems encountered by owners of older coaches, but many of these problems are avoidable through preventative maintenance measures and a common sense approach to whatever problem may arise. This series of articles will focus on coaches that are five years or more in age, but the advice that follows is also applicable to just about any Country Coach on the road today.

FILTERS

Let us begin by taking a look at the various filters used throughout your coach. We all know about the common filter replacements such as the engine air, oil, fuel, and transmission filters, so no need to dwell on these. Other filters that need to be replaced regularly are as follows:

~ Hydraulic System Filter(s).

These are located within the hydraulic oil reservoir just inside the engine compartment opening. Coaches with a Gillig chassis will use a single filter, while those with a DynoMax chassis will take three filters, stacked on top of each other. The hydraulic oil itself must be replaced periodically also! This maintenance item is often overlooked much like the brake fluid in your car. However, the recommended service interval to change both the oil and the filters is 25,000 miles or two years, whichever occurs first. While on the subject of hydraulics, take some time to inspect the hoses that connect the various hydraulic system components together such as the fan drive motor, fan drive controller (FDCA), steering gear box, hydraulic pump, and the reservoir itself. Look for any signs of chafing or loose/cracked fittings and repair as necessary. All DynoMax coaches use proportional hydraulics for the hydraulic fan, thus eliminating the system shock that can fatigue hose fittings through time.

~ Air System Filter/Dryer.

Your coach uses a desiccant cartridge to extract moisture from the air system. This is critical to avoid corrosion, and to ensure continued operation of all pneumatic valves and components should the ambient air temperature drop below freezing. This desiccant cartridge is located inside the Air Dryer assembly that is mounted either just forward of the drive axle, or just behind the front axle. This device also contains the Purge Valve which is responsible for the periodic ‘whooshing’ sound that comes from beneath your coach as you drive. I recommend that this desiccant cartridge is replaced every two years, or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Overlooking this service requirement will eventually lead to an extremely expensive repair bill to extract the fine white powder released when an old desiccant cartridge explodes. When it comes time to replace the desiccant cartridge, the Purge Valve located at the base of the cartridge should be serviced also. A maintenance kit is available for this valve which includes all the necessary seals and springs etc. However, given the frequent cycling of this valve on coaches with IR (Instant Response) Height Control Valves (HCV) such as all DynoMax models, you should consider the more expensive but reliable option and replace the entire Purge Valve assembly.

~ Refrigerant Filter/Dryer.

Speaking of expensive repair bills, another filter that is often overlooked with dire consequences is the refrigerant dryer for your air-conditioning system. This inexpensive filter (some coaches have two) is responsible for removing any moisture from the refrigerant thus eliminating the possibility of a frozen metering valve and the resulting loss of refrigerant circulation. Filter replacement is mandatory if the system is opened to the atmosphere either during service, or because of a major system leak such as a hose failure. If this replacement is overlooked then the filter can fail, filling the high pressure side of the system, including the condenser and the metering valve, with small desiccant beads much like the expanded styrene commonly used for shipping packages. Should this occur, the cost effective fix is to flush out the high side hoses with water and blow them dry with air. The condenser and metering valve should be replaced. Then, most importantly, every last trace of water must be removed using a high vacuum pump and a micron meter, to evacuate the system down to at least 400 microns. This will lower the boiling point of the water to sub zero temperatures, allowing it to be removed as steam.

~ Coolant Filter.

This filter lives on the engine block with Cummins and Detroit series 40 engines, and is mounted remotely for Caterpillar equipped coaches. It serves two purposes, and these are to passively filter the coolant, and as a means to add conditioning additives to the coolant as necessary. A fresh coolant test strip that is compatible with the coolant used on your coach will determine what level of additives are required, and this test strip should be used on a coolant sample taken from the cycling engine circuit such as at a radiator or engine drain. The long life coolants in use today do not eliminate the need for coolant system maintenance, which is becoming increasingly critical as the power output from modern diesel engines continues to rise. A future Destinations article will go into detail on this important topic, but until then, do not overlook this vital maintenance task. Does your coach have a Hydro-Hot heater system? Then be aware that your coolant system requires a special type of FDA approved non toxic coolant.

~ Generator Filters.

As with the engine on your coach, the generator will also require periodic replacement of the air, oil and fuel filters. Propane powered generators will not require a fuel filter. However, diesel generators do, and this filter will cause some trouble due to algae growth in the diesel fuel if the generator lies dormant for a prolonged period of time. If you remove the fuel filter to find it full of a heavy green tinted liquid, then you are probably not running the generator enough to ensure the fuel in the hoses running to and from the diesel tank remain fresh. I recommend at a minimum that the generator is run for at least two hours on a monthly basis. While the fuel filter may require more frequent servicing due to stagnant fuel, the air and oil filter can safely be replaced according to the generators maintenance schedule.

~ Furnace Filters.

If your coach uses a diesel fired furnace for interior heat such as the Webasto, Hurricane or Hydro-Hot, then there will be one or two filters in the fuel system that must be replaced when servicing the furnace. This service should occur annually before the cold season begins.

~ Water Filter.

Most owners are not foreign to water filters and their need for periodic replacement based upon the volume of water used, but we do encounter owners from time to time whom are unaware that their coach has a water filter installed. If you have strong water pressure at your plumbing bay faucet, but the pressure inside the coach is somewhat weak, then this is a good indicator that the replacement of your water filter is long overdue. The filter housing is typically located behind a labeled access panel in the plumbing bay itself, or on the rear wall of the bay just forward of the plumbing bay. The filters are readily available from hardware stores such as Home Depot etc, and you should use an activated carbon filter to both remove particulates, and improve the taste of your potable water.

~ Sediment Filter.

Does your water pump seem to have less output than before? While water pumps do not last forever, take a look at the sediment trap that separates the water pump from the fresh water tank before you replace the pump itself. Cleaning this sediment trap may alleviate any inlet restrictions to the pump that might exist, and give your system pressure a welcome boost.

~ Air Conditioning Filters.

The roof A/C’s on your coach include a removable, washable screen to collect dust from the air as it enters the unit. This screen can be accessed by removing the grille section from the roof A/C vent cover (no tools required).

~ Cooling Fan Filters.

Last but not least, be aware that your coach may use a cooling fan to cool an electronics cabinet or inverter compartment. These fans will generally have a removable dust screen which should be cleaned periodically to ensure the airflow is not restricted. Look for cooling fans in equipment cabinets or consoles behind the driver’s seat, and in the inverter compartment. Prevost Conversions with the ECC (or Electronic Control Cabinet) will also have a cooling fan that discharges through the forward wall of the first bay into the front axle area.

to be continued in another installment......

Club Rallies Offer Educational Opportunities, Friendship and Fun

...and Country Coach Friends Inc is Famous for a

Great All Round Rally Experience Every Time!

Yes, Country Coach Friends Inc rally events always offer great meals, outstanding entertainment and that Pure Fun for which a Country Coach Friends Rally is known...and lots of fellowship, laughs, and time with friends! The consistently "quality rally experience" is something for which this club is become known for!

 

MOTORCOACH RALLIES ARE LEARNING EXPERIENCES TOO!
But did you know that at a CCFI Rally you'll also learn more about your motorcoach, its components systems and aftermarket items? Ask the Experts during a variety of technical seminars your questions regarding particular coach components, systems and aftermarket items. Ask Your Fellow Travelers at owners' roundtable discussions regarding the particular model you drive, as motorcoachers  are often your  best information resource!

Enjoy some crafts, exercise sessions and lifestyle seminars, too.

For instance, at the CCFI Club's 2013 Country Coach Friendship Rally, August 21-25,2013 in Oregon, will feature lots of lifestyle sessions too. This is an annual event in its third year, and this year we return to Linn County Fair & Expo which has LOTS of seminar rooms! So, you can expect everything from yoga and daily bicycle rides, to craft classes, and lifestyle classes like health & fitness on the road, geneology and more...

Vendors Generously Support a CCFI event as well!

Expect dozens of RV-related and Lifestyle-related vendors at the CCFI rally too. RV specific vendors will be offering seminars about your coaches and providing service support for any thing you wish to have addressed during the rally.

Rallies are Member Run! 

As a consultant to the board, I do a quite a bit of rally coordination and planning and scheduling....then as the rally approaches "the pros" step in and "make it happen!" Members volunteer for service on committees like Parking, Registration, Welcome/Information, Decorations, and more...They get involved and get to know their fellow attendees as they work together to make the rally the best one ever! It's a perfect way to maximize your exposure to fellow rallyers and cement lifelong friendships! All in All, you can't go wrong investing your time in a Country Coach Friends Incorporated Rally! 

In 2013 you can see your friends (of all motorcoaching brands) at the following rallies!

CCFI Spring Rally Fun, May 14-19

Buckhorn Lake RV Resort, Kerrville, TX

60 spaces offered! Registrations are now being accepted. Come experience the beautiful Texas Hill Country...cowboys, blue bonnets, and longhorn cattle! And the friendliest community you'll ever visit!

CCFI Friendship Rally August 21-25

Linn County Expo, Albany, OR (tentative)

**New location as we’ve outgrown River Bend Resort in Harrisburg!

Expect this Club Rally to offer a busy busy schedule at a rally reminiscent of  old Class Reunions of the former Country Coach Inc. Company Rallies days, albeit on a smaller scale!

CCFI Fall Fun Rally, October 7-12

Napa County Fairgrounds, Calistoga, CA

Beautiful California wine country awaits...can't wait to see you there.

Enjoy Destination Rallies, too.

Sometimes CCFI chooses a great destination as the focus of the rally. Touring the area and enjoying the sights, attractions and activities is great fun at a destination rally...For example at Petoskey Michigan in 2012, Country Coach Friends parked at the premier Hearthside Grove RV Resort and throughout a busy 5-day rally experience they enjoyed the picturesque sites and scenery of the area. They enjoyed a Mackinaw Trolley Tour, experienced a Sunset Cruise of Lake Michigan, spent a delightful day in Charlevoix and a took a tour of Castle Farms. They loved the day on Mackinac Island with a luncheon at the Grand Hotel. And of course throughout five full days they experienced great meals, entertainment and fun for which a Country Coach Friends Rally is known...lots of fun, laughs, and time with friends!  

The CCFI Club Member Family is growing!

The club has more than quadrupled since forming in June 2011. With membership open to all brands of qualifying motorcoaches, we're looking for larger rally venues so more of us can gather together at CCFI events. Rally locations are being explored for 2014 -- Feel free to Email location ideas to

countrycoachfriendsinc@yahoo.com!

All Motorcoachers Are Welcome!

You need not own a Country Coach to join Country Coach Friends Incorporated or to join its members at rallies nationwide! Learn more at www.CountryCoachFriendsIncorporated.com or call Jerry OConnor at 775-742-4627.

RV Marketer's Thoughts on Lane County Transient Room Taxes

As CCFI’s Consultant to the Board I recently submitted Public Stakeholder Testimony to the Lane County TRT Task Force Meeting

*Here is some of the information regarding Transient Room Taxes as excerpted from a report by Brad Waring, ORVA, www.come2oregon.com

(TRT) Transit Room Taxes are collected by RV Parks from their guests. Oregon law established this tax requiring at least 70 percent of net revenue be used to fund tourism promotion or tourism-related facilities. Lane County collects and distributes millions of dollars each year.

It was a packed room Thursday, October 11 and every attendee did a great job making the case for their piece of the TRT Taxes. The moderator, Mr. Cuyler said he received more than 40 pieces of written testimony. RV related Testimony came in written form from Shannon Nill who responded as an ORVA board member and on behalf of Guaranty RV and the RV Dealers Association(RVDA). Ron Lee of Country Coach Corporation, Mike Brown of Deerwood RV Park, from Myself on behalf of County Coach Friends, and Tom Schneider former Guaranty Salesman and retired RV owner.

Paul and Vickie Williams, owners of Premier RV Resorts, offered hard facts about their TRT collections over the last decade, $300,000.00. Paul broke the ice with a humorous comment about recently becoming a non-profit, like so many of the other Stakeholders who offered testimony. Brad Waring, executive director of Oregon RV Alliance, also spoke in the meeting using an illustrative pie as he lobbied for a portion of TRT taxes being used to market to the RV community.

The TRT Task Force will develop its recommendations to present to the County Commissioners December 5th.

Country Coach Friends Incorporated (www.CountryCoachFriendsIncorporated.com)  is a Big Fan of the south Willamette Valley and the Junction City, Oregon area where all Country Coaches were originally built. We look forward to visiting again soon for more memorable rallies and great times with our many business sponsors of Lane County.

The area is just the BEST spot in the nation for RVing! Travel Lane County has been most supportive of Country Coach events over the years bringing their Van on the Go to rally site (www.eugenecascadescoast.org) and providing key travel information to RVers to enhance their visit to the south Willamette Valley.

Working together, all RV industry professionals can have a part in making sure we all do our part to get the word out that Oregon’s south Willamette Valley is indeed a motorcoachers’ mecca in terms of RV services, dealerships and service centers, not to mention the natural attractions, and just plain FUN things to do!


HERE IS THE LETTER I SUBMITTED:

Bringing RV-owning travelers to Oregon to spend their leisure time is a subject about which I am passionate. For over 18 years I marketed Country Coach and its motorcoaches. As Senior Manager of Marketing at the former Country Coach, LLC I coordinated rallies for up to 400 coach motorcoaches nationwide. Country Coach Friends Inc, (www.countrycoachfriendsincorporated.com) rallies continue to bring thousands of dollars into the communities. The largest one is held annually in the Willamette Valley near where all Country Coaches were built.

The Country Coach Friendship Rally held at River bend Resort in July in Harrisburg raised over $8000 in charitable giving which the Country Coach Friends Club donated to local food banks. The Friendship Rally brought 180 high income RVers to Lane County for several weeks before and after the rally. During their visit they stayed in local campgrounds like Premier RV Resort in Coburg and Deerfield RV Park. Another favorite park is Richardson RV Park at Fern Ridge. While in the area, these rallyers got their engines and furnaces serviced, had paint and bodywork done...They visited area woodworking businesses for cabinetry upgrades. They purchased new tires (in itself a couple thousand dollars single expenditure). They purchased art pieces, home decor, and more as they added new touches to the $300,000 to $1.5 million dollar homes on wheels they choose to drive.  My CCFI Club friends spent time exploring wineries, covered bridges, shopping malls and boutiques eating out at their favorite restaurants during their Lane County visit.

 What a boost to the economy! RV industry professionals like myself (many of whom are  members of Oregon RV Alliance) are dedicated to spreading the message to Motorcoaching friends nationwide to consider spending leisure time and income in Oregon.

If some estimates I have heard that in Lane County 10 percent of all tax monies raised from overnight stays are being garnered from RV Park and campground overnight stays, it seems prudent to devote some of that revenue to marketing endeavors that attract even More RV guests.  One means might be to reach out to all the many RV clubs such as Country Coach Friends Incorporated, telling them about all the Fun that awaits in Oregon!

Lane County is a Great RV Destination-a great place to play. Let's spread the word.