Enhance Motorhome Dry Camping Experience

Blast from the Past Tech Topic: 

7 Tips to Enhance Dry Camping Experience

Originally addressed by the CC, Inc. Service Team in August 2001

 

The simplest answer is to reduce your use of the coach's electrical system.

Here are some suggestions

1. Turn off the inverter when AC power is not required. Although the inverter has an energy saving idle or 'search' mode, in practice it never activates due to parasitic loads such as the microwave clock and 'standby circuits' in TV's and VCR's, etc. Turning the inverter off when you are sleeping, for example, can gain you as much as three to four hours of dry camping time. When plugged in, the inverter can safely remain on.

2. Avoid or limit your use of AC heat producing appliances such as small heaters, the microwave, toasters, curling irons, and coffee makers, etc. If making coffee, just make enough for one cup each and then turn the coffee maker off to prevent the 'hot plate' from discharging your batteries further. A microwave, for example, can pull over 130 amps from the batteries in use.

3. Avoid using bay freezers when dry camping, but if necessary, these should be powered by 12V with the temperature setting adjusted to a minimum.

4. When using your propane or diesel heating system, reduce the temperature settings and use warmer clothing or bedding.

5. Turn off any lights and fans, etc. that are not being used. If the icemaker in your refrigerator runs on inverter power, then this should also be turned off.

6. An important consideration when recharging your batteries is how long the generator will have to run to obtain a full charge. For heavily discharged batteries, this can vary from three hours for two 8D liquid cell batteries, to over ten hours for four AGM batteries. Owners of coaches with larger battery banks will unlikely run their generator long enough to fully charge their batteries and therefore usually experience reduced dry camping time after their initial arrival. 

7.  If your budget allows, installing solar panels will significantly increase dry camping time, and the energy they produce is free, silent, and environmentally friendly. Solar panels do have a limited output however, so maximum gains will be achieved when they are used in conjunction with the energy saving suggestions above

ANOTHER TECH QUESTION: SHOULD I DUMP ALL AIR FROM LEVELING SYTEM BEFORE LEVELING?

ANSWER: While there is no requirement to do so, it won’t harm the system and is a completely acceptable practice. There are two main advantages to dumping first which may appeal to you. The first is that the entry steps will be as low as possible once the coach is leveled. The second is that the coach may feel more “solid” and less “spongy” with some of the air springs completely empty and resting on their internal stops. The only downside (sorry, I just couldn’t help myself) is that under certain conditions it may take longer for the coach to level. Originally addressed by then Country Coach Service Technical Resources Manager in Autumn 2007

*Note: CC, Inc./CC, LLC, the original manufacturer of Country Coach Motorcoaches, closed its doors in November 2009. However, these beautiful motorcoaches are still among the finest on the roads today!  Many gather with owners of other brand coaches a Country Coach Friends rallies. Check that club out!

Essential RV Parts

10 Essential RV Spare Parts

 

In a recent article, MotorHome Magazine staff recently listed 10 items to carry along on your motorhome adventures and why you should do so. Items included LP-gas regulator, Water pump parts, Water pressure regulator, AC generator filter, Thermocouples and electrodes, 12-Volt-DC fuses, 12-Volt-DC light bulbs, Sewer drain cap, Oil, Other essential or handy RV items: Flashlight batteries, nylon cable ties, silicone or other sealant, duct and electrical tape, and a set of tools for the level of maintenance/ repair of which you are capable….

They noted:   

“…Carry these inexpensive items to save time, money and trouble on the road. Finding an RV repair shop while you’re on the road can be a challenge. While RV repair shops are numerous, they’re not as common as general automotive repair shops and parts houses. It’s not practical to carry an extensive complement of spares due to space limitations, but the following is a list of several that are pertinent for consideration, along with comments on what to do if you don’t have a specific spare…. Along with spare parts, essentials should include reference material that could be helpful, such as an appliance manufacturer’s troubleshooting guide and a parts list for your specific water heater, refrigerator or furnace. These usually can be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website. Don’t forget to perform recommended maintenance on schedule to minimize component failures…” —Read the article in its entirety HERE

 http://www.motorhome.com/tech/diy/10-essential-rv-spare-parts/

Motorhome Propane Tank Question

Guest Post

Propane Tank Question

...a still relevant question answered at a rally years ago by Miles Hartmann, a former Service Rep with the defunct Country Coach, Inc

We had to “burn off” a third of a tank of propane in order to have the fuel gauge replaced. The shop said the tank had to be empty before the gauge could be removed. However, after the gauge was replaced and before the tank was refilled, the stove would light? We cooked dinner in fact? How could this happen?

 

A 40-gallon tank with four gallons of liquid propane has potential to create 89 pounds of pressure when fully gassed. Propane boils at 44 degrees F. When liquid propane is sealed in a tank and the temperature rises above 44 degrees F. pressure is being built up. Just as a pressure cooker builds pressure when the water boils, the only difference is the temperature required to start the liquid to boil. Any time the temperature is 44 degrees F. or higher a tank with liquid propane will continue to gas and build pressure.

When a propane tank is evacuated or burned off quickly, the tank’s temperature drops to below 44 degrees F.  This causes the liquid propane to cool below its gassing point. At this time, even though 10 percent of the tank’s capacity is still in the tank in the form of liquid propane, the internal pressure will be near zero

 

To read more technical articles or learn about a great motorhome owners club visit CountryCoachFriendsIncorporated.com

Motorhome Oxidation Run Off

Dealing with Oxidation Run-off--Those White Streaks on Coach Exterior

as shared by Premier RV Services

Are you noticing white streaks on the sides of the RV? Wondering what the cause is, how to clean the unslightly streaks, and how to avoid further oxidation from occurring?

     The white streaks you’re seeing are oxidation run-off from the gelcoat on your roof fiberglass. Gel coat is the smooth outer special resin layer of the fiberglass used in the build of our coach. Oxidation is a result of the sun's UV exposure on the gel coat. Although it does not present any structural concerns, of course you’d like to avoid this. Regular maintenance will help protect the roof surface from ultraviolet radiation. First let’s address removing the streaks.

     Cleaning the streaks on the side of the coach and the coach roof fiberglass

     Try a solution of one cup of detergent and a gallon of warm water to remove the streaks. Add a cup of bleach to this solution to take care of any mildew that may have formed on your roof too. If the streaks remain after washing with the soap solution, look for a fiberglass cleaning product that should be readily available at any good RV or marine accessory store. (For example, Gel Gloss Heavy Duty Cleaner and Wax from Camping World is one. Some RVers swear by Simple Green cleaner…just enter RV Fiberglass Cleaner into your favorite internet search engine and you’ll discover a wide offering of products. Just be sure they are non-abrasive.)

     To prevent the oxidation from recurring, apply a coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant to your roof's surface every six months to year depending on the level of sun exposure. 303 Aerospace Protectant info is available on the manufacturer web site at www.303products.com.

 

Fiberglass Care Basic Do’s and “Don’ts

DO clean fiberglass as dirt and residue appears.

DO avoid cleaning fiberglass surfaces in direct sunlight or extreme temperatures.

DO start at the top and continue to lower levels

DO soak fiberglass surface with clean water and soap to loosen debris (rinse off excessive dirt/debris as a first step)

DO use a mild, non-abrasive commercial cleaning solution as needed, but remembering to thoroughly rinse off all of the cleaning solution.

DON’T use scrapers of any type when cleaning fiberglass.

DON’T allow residue/dirt on the exterior for extended periods of time.

DON’T clean fiberglass in direct sunlight/extreme temps.

DON’T use abrasive cleaning solutions or materials.

DON’T allow metal parts of cleaning equipment to make contact with fiberglass.

DON’T allow abrasive debris/dirt particles between cleaning materials and fiberglass surface.

 

Website: www.PremierRVServices.com

Motorhome Tips on Hydro-Hot Hydronic System

Keepin’ Yourself in Hot Water….the Hydro-Hot Hydronic Heat System

Over the years the now former CC, LLC service team shared a great info dealing with ‘not enough hot water', shared at both at rally seminars and in the former Destinations magazine.

Here We Offer Thanks to Pete Kaye, former CC,LLC Service team member, for this info -- It is still a great refresher.

LOW DC SUPPLY VOLTAGE

The Indicator light on the electronic control panel lights Red when the DC voltage level is too low for the unit to operate properly. When this faul happens, the burner doesn’t start when the “diesel” switch in the coach is activated--even though the Green light on the switch panel is lit. Verify there is adequate supply voltage to the controller (see your Hydro-Hot manual), then clear the fault by using a thin, straight, non-conductive object to press the recessed Low Voltage Reset button located on the electronic control panel.

INCOMING WATER TEMPERATURE

Let’s say we want a constant output of 1.5GPM at 115 degrees F. If the water coming from the fresh water tank into the unit is 60 degrees, the unit is rated to deliver this. However, if the incoming water temperature is lower, you may expect a decrease in hot water quantity (GPM) or temperature. Keep in mind, ambient air temperature in the fresh water tank bay has a direct effect on the output of the heating unit.

COLD WATER MIXING

If the hand-held shower in the plumbing bay is turned off at the shower head but the valves for both the hot and cold water are left open, some inadvertent mixing may occur.

TOO MUCH DEMAND

Shower heads and faucets all place demand on hot water supply especially when used simultaneously. The flow rating for just a shower head inside the coach can be as much as 2.5 GPM. When in use, this alone can consume all the hot water available when showering at average temperature. When the water temp demand is increased, or when the water tank bay is cold, the capacity of the system can be exceeded.

 

The original manufacturer Country Coach, LLC closed its doors in 2009. Today there are several great service centers in the Lane County area to attend to your service needs, including Premier RV of Oregon, Oregon Motorcoach Center and more. Check the Country Coach Friends Club's Member Benefits list online to learn more

Country Coach Exhaust Brake Tips

Guest Post:

Country Coach Exhaust Brake Tips

 

The exhaust brake is designed for frequent cycling during daily transit and can develop problems - such as a stiff or seized butterfly plate – with infrequent use. Starting the engine and stopping it before it has reached normal operational temperature will amplify the problem, particularly in humid conditions where moisture is developed within the engine and exhaust system at initial startup.

To avoid problems after periods of extended inactivity, here are a couple tips:

1) Lubricate all moving parts of the exhaust brake assembly every four months.

2) Periodically start your engine, allow it to reach full operating temperature, then with the engine not running, cycle the ignition switch from off to on several times to actuate the exhaust brake.

by James Jordan, former Country Coach Service Training Developer

Oregon Service Center Announces New Storage Facility

Country Coach Specialists!

This trusted service and sales facility in Junction City, Oregon “checks all the boxes” when you are looking for premier one-stop motorhome care!

 

x Preowned Coach Sales
x Full Service Center
x Paint & Body Shop
x Indoor Secured Storage

 

 

Highline Diesel Coach Sales Specialists!…it’s the PLACE to go with your Country Coach or other Highend Diesel Motorhome. Consignments needed. Premier RV of Oregon also purchases motorhomes. Trades welcomed. Inventory online.

 

Full Service, Paint & Body. No job too big or too small. All makes & models serviced. Experienced highline technicians who KNOW your coach.

 

Indoor Secured Climate Controlled Storage for when you're not out on the road enjoying your motorhome, watercraft, or autos.

 

New Storage Building Complete October 1, 2018!

Come take a tour at 325 E 1^st Ave in Junction City

 

Proud CCFI club business partner/Generous Rally Sponsor. CCFI 10% Parts Discount!

One Year Free CCFI Club Membership when you purchase a motorhome from Premier RV!

premierrvoforegon.com  

Office Phone 541-998-2640

Country Coach Engine Cooling Fan Acting Erratically

Q. The Cooling Fan on my Country Coach seems to be acting somewhat erratically.  Recently I was on a trip and after the engine reached its operating temperature the gauge showed the coolant temperature cycling from 191 to 202.  After a few miles, it went back to the normal cycle range of 187 to 197 degrees. Later in the same trip, I noticed the coolant temperature went crazy and shot up from 181 degrees to 202 degrees, then after 10 to 15 miles it came back down and maintained the temperature at 195 degrees. The air conditioning was not running through any of this, any thoughts as to the problem?

 

A. The fan controller uses a technology called open loop proportional hydraulics.  This essentially means that the fan speed is infinitely variable by the electronic fan controller.  The controller is a “normally closed” solenoid, meaning, loss of 12v power to the controller will cause the fan to run at full speed at all times.

 

The following scenarios could explain symptoms of erratic behavior:

 

1.     The fan controller is requesting an incorrect fan speed based upon erroneous information from the coolant temperature sensor and/or charge air temperature sensor inputs. This could be a problem with loose or corroded connectors at the sensors or at the fan controller which is located on the rear end of the radiator package. It could also be due to a damaged harness to the sensors or defective sensors. Given the low cost of the sensors it is probably advisable to replace them both as a matter of course after first checking all the connectors, harnesses, and ensuring good power and ground in the next step.

2.     The fan controller is not receiving adequate voltage from its two pin connector. One contact in this connector should have a minimum of 12V when the ignition system is powered up. The other contact should show less than one ohm resistance to a clean frame ground.

3.     There may be a problem with the fan controller programming and this would need to be verified by Country Coach Corporation’s service department.

4.     The fan controller is requesting the correct fan speed but the proportional valve on the controller or the switch valve on the fan motor is not responding properly. This is fortunately very unlikely but would need to be diagnosed by Country Coach Corporation’s service department.

5.     The fan cooling system is operating correctly but is responding to inconsistencies with the coolant or charge air temperatures. The coolant temperature shouldn't be an issue here unless there is a problem with the engine thermostat. The charge air temperature however may cause these symptoms if the air filter is plugged or you may be loosing turbo boost pressure due to a leaking boot at one of the large diameter tubes between the turbo charger and the intake manifold.

 

Please note that the coolant temperatures quoted above are not typical of all coaches. Normal operating temperature will vary with engine manufacturer and age. The general trend is for newer engine designs to run hotter as the manufacturers seek to reduce emissions and improve efficiency.

 

Source: Service Tech staff at the former Country Coach LLC provided this helpful info to the Country Coach Friends Incorporated motorhome owners club which is still pertinent to CC owners experiencing a similar problem today.

 

For  additional help with this issue you may contact your local Cummins or Cat engine service center for troubleshooting tips.

Coach Net Tire Tips

TIRE TIPS from Coach-Net

SOUTHLAKE, Texas — Coach-Net is reminding motorists to follow tire safety practices. Tire maintenance plays a big role in RV safety and can make the difference when it comes to a safe and smooth drive, said David Ostlund, president of Coach-Net. “Eighty-three percent of U.S. motorists do not properly check tire pressure, and each year, there are nearly 11,000 tire-related crashes nationwide resulting in nearly 200 fatalities,” he added. “Now is a good time for RV owners and other vehicle drivers to perform checks on their vehicle’s tires, including the spare, and to get into the habit of taking five minutes every month to repeat those checks….”

Coach-Net offers the following tire maintenance fundamentals for all motorists, particularly drivers of RVs and other heavy-duty vehicles:

Check your tires’ air pressure – Check the air pressure every two weeks, or at least once a month and before any major trip. Look for over- or under-inflation. Proper tire inflation is essential for safe and efficient vehicle operation. Vehicles with properly inflated tires experience optimum ride and handling characteristics, shorter braking distances, longer tire life and improved fuel economy.

Inspect your tires’ tread – Inspect your tires for abnormal wear or damage. Look for fraying, scalloping, cupping or any kind of uneven wear, and take it as a life-saving warning sign. Inspect tires for uneven wear patterns on the tread, cracks, foreign objects or other signs of wear or trauma. Remove bits of glass and other foreign objects wedged in the tread, and be sure there are no leaks after removing any debris.

Rotate, align and balance your tires – Regularly rotating your RV’s tires will help you achieve more uniform wear. A bad jolt from hitting a curb or pothole can throw your front end out of alignment and damage your tires. Have an RV dealer check the alignment periodically to ensure that your vehicle is properly aligned.

Don’t overload your vehicle – Overweight RVs lead to axle problems, accelerated suspension wear and failure, and tire failure. Be aware of the recommended size and load range of your tires and whether they are suitable for your weight needs. If you are unsure, check your owner’s manual or tire information placard. Aim for even weight distribution throughout your RV. If for some reason that’s not possible, tires on the same axle should still be inflated to the same pressure.

Invest in tire covers – Over time, the sun’s heat rots your tires, creating cracks; tire covers are a great way to protect this damage from happening. During long pit stops, throw on the covers to give the tires a break and use them on your RV during the off season.

Keep track of your tires’ age – RV tires age out before they wear out in most cases. Once a tire reaches five to seven years of age, they should be inspected by a tire professional annually for signs that they’re failing. The industry generally agrees that after 10 years, especially when the tires are heavily loaded, they should be replaced regardless of wear.

Additionally, to help cushion the blow of those unexpected expenses, Coach-Net’s Hazard Protect product, part of the company’s Protect Suite, which is available through RV dealers nationwide. It provides comprehensive tire and wheel hazard protection.

With terms available from one to seven years, Hazard Protect covers all types of new and used recreational vehicles from common road hazards such as metal, nails, screws, potholes, glass and debris, the release explained.

For more information, visit www.Coach-Net.com.

 

Country Coach Radiator Charge Air Cooler Failure Issue

What Country Coach Motorcoach Model Years was there a potential of the Radiator / Charge Air Cooler Failure Issue to Occur?

Owners of the 2002-2007 model year Country Coach motorcoaches (also some 2000 and 2001 models) have experienced a Radiator (coolant/oil) failure issue and a Charge Air Cooler cracks causing a loss of turbo boost with accompanying loss of power/speed pulling hills.

Radiator - With the radiator failure issue, there is a likelihood of a failure occurring in the joint between the end tank and the core in the aluminum radiators installed in CCs in the 2002-2007 model year range.  The engine’s side mounted cooling fan kicks in drawing up to 45HP energy off the engine. Each time the engine reaches a certain temp the engine fan kicks on. As it is shroud mounted and bolted to the radiator core that vibration and energy from the fan is right against the tanks. It can rip apart at the faulty weld, if you have a radiator with this fault issue. A radiator replacement is the fix in this situation.

Charge Air Cooler – On a Country Coach the charge air cooler is between the radiator and the condenser and the oil cooler, all bolted together (looks like a box). Charge Air Coolers as originally installed in 2002-2007 models featured a bolt-together construction. When aluminum expands and contracts with heating and cooling, wear and tear and failure can occur. If the Charge Air Cooler is cracked and leaks, the engine runs hot, causing accelerated wear and potential engine failure.  A Service Center with knowledge of the Country Coach product lines and model year build processes will be able to help you assess whether your motorcoach may have this Radiator or Charge Air Cooler issue.

*Premier RV Services provided this basic overview. For full details, check with Premier RV in Junction City, OR or with your preferred highline service center. Several are Country Coach Friends Incorporated motorhome owners club Business Sponsors. Members may reference the Club Business Sponsorsinformation at the website. Many offer a discount on services to CCFI MClub embers.

Motorhome Broken Shock

Have You Experienced Broken Shocks?

A technical article by John Davis, JDRV Services

 

Have You Experienced Broken Shocks on your Motorcoach? The main contributing factor to this is the fact that the HWH system has the ability to over inflate the rear bags. This pushes the rear suspension beyond the travel of the shocks and breaks the center shaft. This also results in the ride height valve system being over extended and can break the valves and linkages.

I am finding that the main cause is the system is designed to increase the air to the drive axle bags when the tag axle is lifted to compensate for the weight increase to the drive axle airbags. The problem here is that the system does not stop pushing that air to the drive bags until the tag returns to its down position.

When driving in heavy traffic or sitting for extended periods of time with the tag lifted, this may cause this issue as the tag is designed to return to the down position automatically when the coach reaches 7 or 12 MPH depending on which program it has in the HWH brain (normally when shifts to 2nd gear under normal acceleration).

In my experience, there is no true fix for this issue but there are things you can do.

Remember that the reason for lifting the tag is to reduce wear on the tires and increase turning radius at low speeds. If you are not making tight turns or backing up in a tight turn situation the tag does not need to be lifted. Be aware that you don't allow the tag to stay in the lifted cycle while in gear for more than about 4 minutes at any one time.

You may have also heard of the shock limiting straps. These are not a foolproof fix and have been also known to break, but are an accessory that can be installed to help reduce the possibility of shock breakage.

Contact me to discuss this subject in more detail if you wish or any other coach questions you may have.  (I am pleased to extend a 10% discount to Country Coach Friends Inc Club Members.)

 

JDRV Services Inc: www.jdrv1.com/.

Ph:  541-306-6473

2001 Intrigue Toggle Switch Question

Hey What’s That Light Up Toggle Switch Do?

A gentleman called Premier RV of Oregon recently to ask a question about a toggle switch in the steering gear compartment under the driver seat. He owned a 2001 Intrigue and he’d always wondered what that switch is for?

These toggle switches are for testing and diagnostics purposes. ABS blink codes are displayed on one of the toggle switches. There is also a toggle switch for the generator codes you may find located there. The service tech can hold that toggle down for a bit and release and codes will light up. You can learn more about these toggle switches in the White Tab Appendix Section in your Country Coach Owners Manual. If you have questions such as these you may feel free to email premierrvservices at gmail dot com.

Premier Rv of Oregon, 325 E 1^st Avenue, Junction City OR 97448 www.PremierRVServices.com

Motorhome Fresh Water System Care

Sanitizing and Chorinating the Fresh Water System

as taught by RVIA/RVDA endorsed RV Schools and as seen in FMC 3/2014

Foul or stale tasting water can ruin an excursion; it also may be harmful. If foul water persists, you may need to chlorinate the fresh water system. RVIA published this method of chlorinating the fresh water system as taught in all RVIA/RVDA endorsed RV Schools.

1                     Drain/flush fresh-water tank; leave empty

2                     Mix ¼ cup liquid household bleach (sodium hypoclorite with one gallon fresh water.

3                     Pour directly into fresh water tank through the gravity fill.

Note: If the motorhome is not equipped with a gravity fill for the fresh water tank, use a funnel to pour each gallon of mixture directly in the fresh water hose prior to connecting it to the city water source. Some motorhomes may be equipped with an alternate method of pumping the chlorinated mixture directly into the fresh water container.

4                     Add one gallon chlorine/water solution for every 15 gallons of fresh water tank capacity.

5                     Top off tank with fresh water.

6                     Remove or bypass water purification equipment and/or filtering cartridges.

7                     Turn on water pump and open every faucet in the motorhome, including exterior faucets, and shower heads.

8                     Allow solution to pump through system into toilet, through water heater, to every hot and cold faucet at each sink until the distinct odor of chlorine is present at every fixture.

9                     If applicable, at the city water inlet, gently use the eraser end of a pencil to depress the check valve and briefly allow the solution to pump out the city water inlet until the chlorine odor is detected in the discharge.

10                  Close all faucets and turn off water pump.

11                  Allow system to stand dormant for 4 hours. This will chlorinate and disinfect the system, including fresh water tank, water heater, faucets, complete piping system, and all fittings to a residual level of 50 parts per million (PPM).

12                  At four hours, drain and flush system once again and top off water tank with fresh water.

Do not allow to sit longer than 4 hours. If 100 ppm residual concentration is desired, use ½ cup bleach instead of ¼ cup for each gallon fresh water; let it stand 1 to 2 hours. If the odor of chlorines it too strong after sanitizing procedure, drain, refill and flush tank until satisfactory level of taste/odor achieved. This process should be done after extended storage, winterization, as you detect stale water, not less than once per season.

 

COUNTRY COACHFRIENDS INCORPORATED motorhome owners club website lists all its past enewsletters and this is also a good sources of information about your motorhome care...  www.CountryCoachFriendsIncorporated.com